The 25th Day in Japan about 6:00 clock I torture myself totally frozen out of my sleeping bag. Now for the first time a hot tea from a vending machine and pilgrims for breakfast biscuits and bread. " The latter are so soft Briochebrötchen-like bread sticks, buns out there with taste (stew) or with chocolate sprinkles. I pull on the machine even a cocoa because I'm chilled to the bone really. While I watch as the early birds in yukata (cotton kimono) from the nearby Onsen (spa), a walk to venture into the cold. So it was but an onsen or restaurant, as I thought yesterday when I (romaji) under the sign in Latin letters for Furuiwaiaso the word "family restaurant" read. I pack my things, my sleeping bag at the foot soaking wet. The next opportunity I have to dry, I think to myself. Now, however, nimbly, I'm already too late. If you sleep outside one is awake at sunrise, but until we had breakfast, packed up and ready to leave, it takes longer than you would have one in the ryokan (inn) stayed. My neighbor was there in the parking lot are still sleeping in their camper, but I must make myself on the way to Temple No. 45, which are here very close. The delicate morning mist clears. At the moment it is still cold and dark, as I walk in the shadow of high cliffs, but when I use the trail on the river Naos walking down, I can witness a magnificent spectacle of nature: Through the mist you can see the individual rays of the sun here on the river hit the rocks. Warm gold pours over me and the tired old trees that stand here on the shore. A beautiful landscape down here, you can see above, not from the street. Only the traveling pilgrims, the follows the pilgrimage is given to this beautiful view. I slowly gets warmer, I wander through a bamboo grove and come to the site of a shrine, which lies close to the town, get out again. It must be a very old shrine, as you can see the pictures in a kind of stage building hardly so faded they are. But the sun shines and warms me is that for me the main thing. It passes a tea plantation. I notice a sign that lists the sites of well-Mikawa village, a city which is far behind Temple No. 45th But the skiers has plotted out to me that you definitely here on Shikoku, despite sub-tropical climate, in winter in the mountains can count on snow. Perhaps no 4 m, as for Hokkaido, the northernmost of the four main islands of Japan, is typical, but at least you can indulge in Shikoku the alpine skiing. Now it goes by so high a shopping street along the route. The shacks are still boarded up, probably as early as it does not expect any customers. And you welcomed me two guards statues (NIO) on stone pillars, wooden gate to follow later. From here comes the Gekraxsel release. Through a seemingly endless, stone staircase, which is accompanied by a metal railing, I work my way toward the main temple. I get quite a sweetened by numerous stone statues, the one with me Search game event, as they merge their mossy forest floor relatively well with their surroundings. Only the standing of the stairs red and blue flags, sometimes inscribed stone railing brackets form a contrast to the lush forest and moss green. I pass a Jizo gallery with a hole in which only a stone is. Ladles on the roof of this structure suggest that there is a fountain that gave rise to Kobo Daishi once here. Today, however, the well still looks pretty dry. And finally I am on the first levels of the temple, this one still quite bright, bell tower, an outhouse, a pilgrim house, a stone basin and the Residential and administrative buildings of the temple has.
Digression No. 45 Temple Iwayaji (岩 屋 寺)
"The temple of the rock cave bears his name rightly, as it has been built directly in front of a jagged cliff in the mountain. The area here is famous for its bizarre rock formations, of which the 100 m high Koiwaya rock, about 2 km away from the temple, the most famous. In 1874, the temple was here (Buddhist Ceremony), officially the status of the innermost sanctuary of Temple No. 44 (Taihōji) as No. 45 of the main temple (fudasho) raised. According to legend, this temple was Kobo Daishi 815 by a mysterious woman named Hokke-Sennin paid to the winning bids for one magical abilities. The Daishi made two statues of Fudo Myoo: a stone, which he placed in a cave (Gohonzon) other wood as the main deity of the Main Hall (Hondo). Gradually, the whole mountain was sacred, as seems to be quite common in Shintoism. The temple is one of the mountain temple (nansho) of Ehime Prefecture, and offers retreats for hermits and pilgrims traveling to pursue their religious practices. "Seriwari Zenjo" here is called the rock on which Kobo Daishi went about his religious training. It can be reached via a steep 300 m long path at the end of a ladder is using which one can get on the rocks. But beware, you must first ask for permission at the temple! 1898 was the whole complex, with the exception of some documents, destroyed by fire. 1927 Main Hall (Hondo) and some other buildings were rebuilt.
The temple here has been really stuck to the rock wall. On the first level, I set my backpack on the blue benches with the inscription of the candle manufacturer, fortify my stick and hat, so they do not fall over. The pilgrims rule states that the floor symbolizing Kobo Daishi, and therefore he must be given priority. It is always a little embarrassing to me then, if the stock falls over in front of my eyes and my hat the length investigated. But I climb the stairs next to the main hall, always the overlying rock face in view. But on the next intermediate level attracts me a dark hole in the rock. Here is a pool and a six-pack of incense Jizōs. On the hand railing, I prefer my way through the darkness. When my eyes have adjusted slowly to the light change, I can make up in the glow of lanterns small stone figures. Although they are very dark, if it is a type of stone or of carbon black, but I can see a Buddha statue and Fudo Myoo. I love these sights to explore themselves, since they are not in the temple leaders, but I'd like to know more, but this is denied me due to my small knowledge of Japanese.
I recite my Heart Sutra at the Main Hall (Hondo) in honor of Fudo Myoo, whom I had met in stone on the way here and in the cave. I had confused the temple building almost since the Dashidō (Daishi Hall), usually a smaller hall, away from the content. But this time it is the larger hall to the left of the main hall. In the temple leaders is that they overcome a path of 300 m in order to Kōbō a ladder Daishis rocks (seriwari zenjo) to arrive on which he is said to have meditated, but one leader stands here next to the Hondo (main hall). I climb still higher up, passing through a very old Niōmon (gate with guard figures), but up here the trail is passable so bad that I return to my backpack. I must now make an entry can be in my pilgrimage book, but on the way there, gives me an graugetigerte entgegengeschnurrt cat. The bundle of joy is so affectionate that he herumschmust even with the cold stone figure of a Jizōs. There is a round of me crawl, but then I have to give me the young woman beaten, which comes with a can of cat food from the house. With "neko kawai" (cute cat!) I give her to understand that I like cats and especially sweet find. But I gotta go, me prized from the details, since the next temple in 30 km away. I'm still a flying visit to the outhouse, where a sign says "Western Style" and prohibits further squatting on the "Westerners toilet" with a cross, while the correct seats are offered with a circle. The words "Forestry, Agriculture and Fishery Biomass Recycling System" has the silence village as a bio-toilet of what is being recycled well or where the land, I ask myself and continue my way. On the way back to the valley I walk but the couple of hours in the arms - so we meet again. It's 9.00 clock and the heat makes me ready. This morning, still frozen and cook now in its own juice, as I praise my onion look. If I get too warm, I can make the fleece jacket in the rain jacket, the sleeves of the fleece are also removable and I wear under my short-sleeved shirt or a function. I walk the way back at the long road to the bridge before the temple I still admire the two stones that you have set up here and the bus stop with their sliding doors would have also made a nice night. But I must return now, after almost the entire play Kuma City.
This time I walk through the tunnel Koiwaya on Koiwaya rocks at my former place to sleep at Kogen Golf Club and at Furusato-mura, a kind of open-air museum ( http://www.kuma-kanko.com/english/index.html ) over, until the town with the supermarket. Here I place the first time then a break and eat a whole bag filled with fruit cake - which would have been in my bag anyway, just smashed. But be careful, I can not cut the stomach too full, otherwise I go out of sheer digestion of breath. Sorry, make thigh and calf to create me, they do not hurt, but the constant "onions" and pinching a nerve can then anyway.
It goes back to the hills, over bumpy forest paths I get a small village, the fields were built in terraces on the mountain. Next time, when I come from the forest, there is only one cement factory or is it an old quarry. In any case I'm doing next village stop. Here is a WC-house the latest design stands next to a bridge. Unfortunately, the wind blows this way around the corners that I have to take all my stuff with the house. On the other side of the Kuma River, whose course has been changed here, a park with cherry trees and pavilion has been prepared. I pass a shrine, probably the Kōdono of the shrine, and continue on my way back uphill. Here on a hill of Funa mountain you have a beautiful view of the valley and also slid off the slope, I can see it from here. It slip again and again suspended or are in part It quarries and the construction of roads and tunnels over large areas are cleared. These bald spots can be seen even from a distance, since they appear as brown spots in the otherwise green mantle of the mountains. After I had the Misaka pass behind me, it gradually becomes flat, as I walk in the plane is in the Matsuyama City. I also take a short break in the Sakamotoya pilgrims refuge, as it is called in the card and follow the course of the river Misaka. "Amikake ishi is called the next building in my card because it has a swastika (the swastika in the other direction), a Buddhist symbol. Whether you can stay in an emergency, I wonder, but the day is still young and the next temple I was still able to reach in daylight. On my way to meet me anywhere large white signs, since they have little sketches, it is probably not official signs, but ones that tell stories and myths from the region. Unfortunately I have no time to study it great that I will do later. I have finally reached the great plain and follow a pilgrim, who runs a few hundred yards ahead of me. When I catch up with him because the poor thing the way is not well known, but has already raised a farmer. I follow him with a grin and he speaks to me. I show him my English language Card Book. Together we can step out onto Temple No. 46, but on the temple grounds I lose it again, because my mind off two foreign women.
Digression No. 46 Temple Joruriji (净 瑠 璃 寺)
"The Temple of pure lapis lazuli" is named after Yakushi Nyorai, which is also called "Buddha of pure emerald light" (Ruriko Nyorai) refers. But why the blue Lapis Lazuli is said to have anything to do with the green emerald, I can not explain. In any case, the temple 708 of Gyōgi (668-749) was founded, who also carved the statue of Yakushi Nyorai. He was joined by two more statues of the lunar and solar light (Nikko and Gakko). 812 Kobo Daishi came here and renovated the temple. Between 1392 and 1467 expanded the temple, he was given land, were built on the new building, but fell back later. In the late 17th Century reached a forest fire to the temple district of, only the statues of the main deities were rescued. Only 80 years later the temple by a man named Gyón (1723 -?) Re-established, as a service to the community, asking for money to build temples and the 8 bridges of the road from Tosa Iwayaji to Matsuyama. Also noteworthy are the three 1000-year-old trees, which are among the natural monuments of Matsuyama. On to the foot of a tree is there a figure Kobo Daishi (momi Daishi) lead to their devotion to a long life and good harvest. But there are other wonderful environment in the stones, such as the footprints of Buddha (bussoku seki), the one when they enter with bare feet, are designed to provide immediate pain relief. They also protect one from accidents in the Japanese market chaos. There is a large prayer stone (ishi seppoo), in which a small stone from the mountain Ryōju let into India. As a counterpart to the footprints, there are close to the bell tower of the Buddha's palm prints, which should give a wisdom and skill. And Another Busshu - Busshu shimon (Buddha's fingerprints) to promote harmony of body and soul, and bring dormant writing skills to flourish. Another rock has nothing to do with Buddha. On it is a haiku (traditional Japanese poem), by the Masaoka Shiki (1867-1902), one of the most famous haiku poets of modern times, which was written in memory of Saburō Emon, who is originally from this area: How long
and the spring
Worth,
remind you of Emon Saburo
In Joruriji.
Reminder - Saburō is the man of Kobo Daishi did not give alms and in no time at all his 8 sons had died. In an attempt to ask for forgiveness Daishi, he shot several rounds through the temple Shikoku, in which he suspected the Daishi, totally exhausted, he died in the arms of the sought wandering monk. According to legend, he has thus established the pilgrimage. His tomb stands between Temple No. 11 and No. 12!
Unfortunately I have not seen any of the Busshu (foot, finger, palm prints), because the square is paved with such greenery and stone figures that it is difficult to keep track of. Moreover, I relented, produced by a conch shell, sound off and I wondered if I one day Yamabushi (mountain ascetic), practitioner of Shugendō meet could. While I still admire the beautiful palm trees, I can think of two European women who have appealed to the pilgrims office a break. As they discuss with one another lively, I speak to them like in German. There are mother and daughter, and come from Magdeburg or daughter is studying Japanese at Berlin. This is the reason for their trip, because the daughter wants to make the pilgrimage of 88 temples on the subject of her thesis. Since both very japanophile (Japan loving) are the mother unceremoniously scraped together their vacation and went with her daughter on tour together. You tell me that they have just seen another Yamabushi (mountain ascetics), who blows his conch added. But when I later look for the hermit, he is unfortunately disappeared. I get the daughter of an orange with the statement presented to the view were taken in the pilgrim's office believe that we belong together. I thank you and leave as the two, they tell me that they will visit the nearest temple and then to search for a hotel. While you are traveling by bus and train, but have not yet made reservations. We say goodbye. I still have my heart reciting sutras, but after I get out of the pilgrim's office to give me a piece of paper falls from my backpack in the eye. The two of them from before left their address and I'm annoyed that I do not own I got the idea to document that both or also to give them my address. As a veteran of Shikoku, one could, back in Germany, sometimes meet and exchange experiences. But can I correct this error soon, since I have both obtained just before Temple No. 47 again.
Digression No. 47 Temple Yasakaji (八 坂 寺)
The temple was probably built in the 7th Century Gyōja Ozunun (634-701), founder of the Shugendō ("way of training of miraculous powers"), was established. 701 extended the sovereign of the province of Iyo, Tamaoki Ochi, the complex around 7 other warehouses and dedicated to the worship of the emperor Nonmu (also Nommu; 683-707; 42 Emperor). Of this sovereign was the temple its name "Temple of the 8 slopes," because one could reach him at that time only 8 slopes or on the journey to the mountain Daido (now Otomo) led up. After Kobo Daishi 815 stayed here, the temple flourished as an important institution for Shugendō. In the 16th Century, burned down the complex and its treasures of Chōsokabe troops, but later developed. The main deity (Gohonzon) is Amida Nyorai, whose statue of an influential Tendai priest named Genshin (942-1017), was carved also known as Eshin. Tendai is one based on the Lotus Sutra, School of Buddhism in Japan, which temporarily dominated rival, especially in the time-Hein (794-1192), and the Shingon school. Emon Saburō already mentioned, had only a few miles from here, his family temple named Monju in and Tokujōji. The graves of his 8 sons are not 500 meters from Yasakaji Temple. Worth mentioning also the stone tower and an Indian relics tower (stupa) are. A 13-century -Century Amida statue and a certificate from the same period Bishamonten figure among the major world cultural heritage. Taking up the origins of the temple grounds of the Daigo-ha branch of Shingon, here is a major center for the practice of Shugendō which the Shinto Deities (budd. gong / shinto. Kami), which are on Mount Kumano in the Kii Mountain (Wakayama Prefecture *) revered as the personification of Buddhist worship here Bodisattvas. Therefore, the temple is also called the Kumano-san-Yasakaji.
* this place I visited in my tour of Shikoku as well. The Shinto pilgrimage tour, which leads to the three major shrines of Kumano is, "Kumano Kodo", and you can start from different starting points, such as members of Koya-san. But I have wandered from the famous Ise Shrine, and continually bumped into places where Kobo Daishi has worked wonders.
digression Shugendō (修 験 道)
Shugendō "in Japanese means" the way the exercise of miraculous powers "and is a mixture of Buddhism and Shintoism. The followers of these religious or mixed form shugenja Yamabushi be ("sleeping in the mountains"), since they perform in the mountains their magic rituals and ascetic exercises. These include meditation in solitude, but also the fire run (Goma ritual) in honor of Fudo Myoo or meditating under icy waterfalls.
"miracles" such as the casting out of demons, or fortune-telling are acquired by the Auslooten of human abilities in these events, which to the outsider appear as superhuman. However, natural medicine master this hermit who know about in the wilderness, and to have an encounter with the legendary mountain goblins (Tengu) acquired self-defense skills. Externally you can see the mountain ascetic monk in their unconventional dress: It is characterized by its saffron-yellow color, the large tassels and a small box (hōjugata tokin), to be funded before the end, serves as a head covering. The latter is when traveling through the forest Astschlägen protect and serve as a drinking cup used. Acoustically they make with their conch-shell (hora) attention to itself, a further sign of recognition.
the gate Temple No. 47 may well be insignificant - small and narrow and without a guardian statues, this is the painting of the ceiling all the more impressive. Buddha is shown here with a variety of Apsaras, which are kind of Buddhist goddesses and angels. On the temple grounds there are a variety of posters and photo collages that tell about the Shugendō and their rituals. Rituals in which the Yamabushi (mountain ascetic) here come together and celebrate as the fire walking attract not only locals, but more and more tourists. But the appearance of Yamabushi in their saffron-colored clothes, armed with conch and Riesenpuscheln worth seeing. Although I was on my subsequent pilgrimage Shikoku and the Kii Peninsula to take some Yamabushi in appearances, but she scurried past me too quickly and did not allow the weather a photo. Right next to the temple, there are two courses, I would describe it sometimes as heaven and hell that are not also in the temple leaders mentioned. While you walk through the sky walk across a flat floor, the walls with Apsara figures (goddesses, angels) are decorated. In sharp contrast, there are dens transition pitfalls and creepy hungry ghost. Here in the temple I see a new form of "Thousand Cranes" origami (Japanese paper folding) - instead of pulling on a chain, one has quite particularly small cranes folded them into a 1.5-liter plastic bottle of "locked".
I think even the stone tower, but he is not particularly large. If in the English temple leaders talk of "Tower" or "monument" is, thinks the Europeans always high towers and monumental, that is great, memorial stones. It is then somewhat disappointed if such a tower measures "only" 2-3 m and the monument one might be enough just to hip. This can be quite difficult if you keep in a park on the lookout for something great. If we had known how large or small, such a memorial, in fact, would have they do not see you. But enough of ruminating about missed opportunities. Without further ado, I agree with the two Magdeburg, do not ask but not sure if my presence is acceptable to them. You never know in what condition the spiritual pilgrims are here, sometimes they seem to have enough self-society. I, too, the moments were precious, in which I did not have to chat to a fellow pilgrim, if I wanted to soak in the atmosphere just me or climb a mountain with a loud gasp had. But the two are very relaxed and together we try to do on the way to find a place to stay.
There are still strawberries in a stand bought at the roadside - a ausgedienert fridge serves as display and pay a fixed bolted to the box office. Unfortunately, the road was rebuilt here just making it hard to navigate. Ebara The resort is closed and now houses a recreation center with indoor tennis court. The Tengiku is barred and dark. When the two already toying with the idea to take the next bus to Matsuyama, but we find in the Cochin-ya a place to stay. Since the Bangai temple No. 9 (Monjuin) right here is around the corner, I would have them not on their bus tour of the city may follow. But now we are in such a real bed castle quartered, park in front of the 3 coaches.
That mother and daughter have no liking for Japanese food, they prefer to provide with western food from the combine market (24-hour store), I take my dinner alone in the large dining room. This was even built an altar to Kobo Daishi, and as the waitress brings me my dinner, she shows me with folded hands, I should thank me for it but at the Daishi. What I immediately do. The food is as always very tasty. Today there is even a small fire pot: This is such a small pot with lid, is heated in the soup with a gel fuel firing. This alone is a spectacle, when the flame as blazes in front of him. But when I open the lid, the waitress has me to wait on them so that everything is well cooked, which is like a still life - as with pasta, mushrooms, sprouts, wafer-thin beef, shrimp tails and green onions.
After I took a bath, there is again only a shared bathroom, which I use alone, however, as most guests take a bath first and then food, I am meeting with my two Magdeburg in the hall for a drink. I tell you about the sauna, which I discovered in the swimming area. On machines I prefer me a Calpis Soda, which is mineral water with a light yogurt flavor. Together, we three of us lolling on a couch and talk about our experiences and plans. The Japanese student I discuss more about Japanese educational materials and how to best learn the kanji (symbol characters). To my surprise, she offers me a Kitkatzen of chocolate bars, it has recently pulled out of the vending machines. Until now I had thought that it was a chocolate drink with Kitkatzen taste, but when she shows me the glass with the ties, then I am a bit puzzled. Although I knew next to soft drinks, beer, coffee and tea, there are both cold and hot drinks from vending machines, has several ready-made soup, but I did not have candy bars as expected. We summarize and discuss and come to the conclusion that the pilgrims are cookies taste very good. We adopt We differ because we do not know if we'll see you again tomorrow morning and crawl into our futons. Unfortunately, the night will be with me not quite as relaxing as my toilet flush constantly noisy, it is the flushing of the neighbors. When I go to the noise on the ground, I discover a small river, the German would probably describe it as "Pasture", which passes directly under my proof. Since the air conditioner and use a large flat screen in the room and nothing if you do not stop the rush of the river can.
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