The 28th Day in Japan As I said, that this should be here for a business hotel, is laughable, because the bathroom is dirty, shampoo, there are none, and only the cigarette smell in the room! But I will still meet more often on my tour. I do not understand why, if you only have tatami rooms, should it not be possible to clean them thoroughly. are dust catchers such as furniture but it does not, because you can still edit the rest more thoroughly? After a quick breakfast combine, here there should be the first morning meal at 7.00 clock, I sneak. When do I get past the front building, which apparently is the dining room (Shokudo), a man jumps out and thanked me for my visit. This can we do but only with pilgrims who come here never over. But over time it will be modest, a roof over their head, and especially a hot bath in which one is not cooked right, and the day has been a successful. While I started my tour yet for sheer tension had stomach pain at the thought of having to look for me every night for a hotel, I am now quite loose on it. The tension is so given way to a loose focus on the goal. But not in the sense of obsession, to create the target. Rather, I am without a doubt convinced the tour until the 88th run through the temple to be able to, because I give my best every day and still not on real problems came across the health, the weather or the captivity. It's much more of a walking meditation. One does what one makes perfect: If I walk, I walk when I'm hungry I eat when I'm broken and I take a break. I rarely watch the clock, only when I have to decide if I should still continue today. In any case, now I walk towards the rising sun and stick on my food at the next Lawson Combine. Here I telephone with Germany, pointing to my family that I'm still wide awake and I no yakusa gangster (Japanese Mafia) "shanghait" (kidnapped) added. If I count back 8 hours, it is in Germany Late evening, I could also call on the German morning, but then it would be in Japan early evening and just as I check into my accommodation or sleep on, because I have to get up again in the morning with the sun. I quickly got over the few miles to Temple No. 54th This is now a beautiful temple hunting, overall, I can now capture 6 more entries for my pilgrim book (nokyochō), as the temple here in Imabari City only 3 are up at most 6 km apart.
Digression No. 54 Temple Enmeiji (延命 寺)
"The temple of long life" was originally under the name Enmyōji on Mount Chikami (244 m) of Gyōgi (founded in 668-749). He built seven temples 729-749 halls and carve as Honzon (chief deity), a statue of Fudo Myoo. Between 774 and 835 Kobo Daishi came at the behest of Emperor Saga (786-842, 52nd emperor) here and renovated the dilapidated temple. During the war in the 16th Century, fire destroyed the building countless times. According to legend, the head of the temple in 1704 cast bell was stolen. When they ring, they now wish they should be only a faint "inuru - inuru" given of themselves, have meaning in the local dialect as much as "go home". The frightened robber brought the bell once for Temple back. In 1727 the temple was moved to its present location and during the Meiji period (1868-1912) of Enyōji in Enmeiji renamed to avoid confusion with the Emyoji (Temple No. 53). Between 1912 and 1926, the entire temple area was renewed. The ultimate goal is the Temple of the Imabari Castle have been transported here. The temple can Enmeiji is the only temple of the Shikoku pilgrimage, the two bell towers have. It still hangs together with the legend of the complaining bell. But as the exact relationship is, is very difficult as there are several variations of this story. The temple is also known to the Buddhist Gyón (1240-1321), from the to have written Kegon school of Buddhism, here his book Hasshū-Koyo, "The interest from the philosophical analysis of the 8 schools of Buddhism," in which he deals with the history of the six schools of the so-called Nara Buddhism and the two schools of Heian Buddhism has set apart. Others believe he did so in Temple No. 53. In any case, there is a stone trail marker (hyōseki) used by the priest Yuben Shinn (1691; not Shinnen from Todai-ji in Kyoto, 804-91!) Has been established. Around the 17th Century, having made the pilgrimage about 20 times, and during which the pilgrim route surveyed and countless pilgrims accommodation and signposts built. It is also responsible to the first pilgrims book, "Shikoku Henro Michishirube," of 1687th In 1689, he added it to a second volume, "Shikoku Henro Kudokuki" in which he has collected the stories and myths around and over the Shikoku pilgrimage.
The temple is situated on a small hill, you have to scramble not much, but you have a beautiful view, if one seeks out off the main hall of the place with the cherry trees. There is a row of shops that is still closed. The halls are beautifully decorated, but I especially liked the tall trees and palms. I think even the two bell towers, and later in the photos I can only apart because the one with red lanterns and the others are decorated with white lights. Not so very nice I think here the Jizo Figure, which is surrounded by little "green men" that remind me strongly of yet unborn fetuses. The "pill" is not widespread in Japan and so are unwanted pregnancies often aborted. But Jizo is the protector of all children and so the women can at least the souls of their "water children" as they are called in Japan, nor do good. The women fear that is the revenge of the souls and so the temple to make this Jizo cult not a little.
See http://www.tagesschau.de/ausland/wasserkinder102.html on this subject!
digression death rituals in Japan
in connection with death rituals in Japan is the adjacent cemetery, in the map he 'Memorial Park', and the more impressive. The Buddhist monk Kukai is dead, name of Kobo Daishi, but this is not a privilege for verehrensvolle personalities, but is given to each deceased, as he is on the way to the afterlife. This name is also written on tablets (ihai) who are worshiped along with a picture of the deceased on the Buddhist altar. In Japan, the dead were burned very quickly and not its ashes, but only the remaining bone collected. Having laid out at home with his head to the north and a vigil, led by the eldest son, was held, is performed by a Buddhist priest, the other ceremonies. After the cremation of the family members using extra long bamboo sticks, the bones transferred to an urn. Kotsuage ("picking up the bones") is called the ceremony and is the basis for that in Japan never enough food from chopsticks to chopsticks. This urn is then stored in the family grave. Each community has its temple cemetery, but the place is expensive and the memorial built on is not cheap. The mourning period is 7 times 7 days (49 days) within this time is to the soul of the deceased have completed the journey to the afterlife, where, after each week another ceremony held. Then after 3, 7, 13 and 33 years of follow another ritual. An annual commemoration is the Obon Festival in mid-August, in which the deceased ancestors return to their graves and will be honored by their surviving relatives with offerings. There are many lights that the ancestors of the way of the hereafter (Muka-bi, "welcome light") to (adoption light "Okuri-bi) and after three days have again returned to the afterlife. Fireworks and the famous above all for Kyoto "Daimonji" in which to inform the 5 mountains of the city fire are symbol characters (kanji) for "Buddha's great lesson" sparked, are characteristic of this festival. (Butsuden) On which occur in private households Buddhist family altars and shitoistischen (Kamidana) I will mention only in passing. It should only be noted that death is celebrated Buddhist and the life (birth, marriage, etc.) Shinto. And because the Shinto purity is based on very, death and blood and lead to pollution, the miniature shrines Kamidana be imposed during the laying out and cleaned the audience afterwards with salt.
But back to the cemetery, the memorial will be no end. I discover from all the typical Japanese marble stones but also a small pyramid with a Christian cross and grave times, which act as natural stones. There is a large memorial to the fallen of the war. While I can not read the inscription, but a large gun barrel, which is here before the towers, to me this makes it unmistakably clear. I follow the trail and leave the cemetery, follow the flow of Asa-gawa and wonder how in such a shallow and muddy trickle will still catch fish. That surprised a few turtles paddling around here not me, but the angler who is here and wants to attract to feed the fish, I watched it but wonder if he is not while I was still a catch possible to pull the country. But nil - I follow on the river, past the Himesaka Shrine, a shrine because I will be visiting the same, the Ōyamazumi that will directly adjacent to the Nankōbō. Suddenly a roar in front of me over on the other side of the river current pilgrimage to me. I do not understand his words, but as he always waves to the right, I'm assuming that I am at the latest at the next bridge, the river should go, not to miss the temple. Yes, the heading in the cities is difficult because the signage is missing and will either be overlooked because of other signs. But finally, I stand at the shrine, the Inari foxes I have a Flying visit to pay her and walk at the monument of the air raids of the 2nd World War II by the gate of the temple No. 55
Digression No. 55 Nankōbō Temple (南 光 坊)
In the past there was a temple shrine on the island Omishima, which is said that he had been founded by Gyōgi (668-749). Omishima the island is 20 km away from the place on which "the temple of the southern light," as the Nakōbō says in the translation, it is now. Although no longer part of Shikoku island in the Seto Inland Sea this with the Shinto shrine Oyamazumi still belongs to the prefecture of Ehime. 703 were from Ochi Tamazumi, agent the province of Iyo (Ehime later), 24 Hall of the Buddhist church built eight buildings of which 712 were transported by Ochi on Shikoku, as it in stormy weather could not be used. The Nankōbō was thus originally a branch of the Buddhist shrine Oyamazumi. It is not unusual that Buddhism and Shintoism are branched so closely together, as a theory of the 9th Century, the Honji-suijaku ("Theory of the original forms and the manifest traces") is called, is the Shinto kami as manifestations of Buddhas or Bodisattvas. This happened, for example, for Kami the Kumano shrines in the Kii Mountains, are especially revered in Shinto and Shingon Shugendo (see No. 47 Temple Yasakaji). Between 810 and 824 Kobo Daishi visited the temple led by a rite, and recognized the sanctity of this place. The temple was again transferred in 1119 and thus separated from the actual Ōyamazumi shrine, which is still next door. Between 1573 and 1592 at least eight buildings were burned down by troops and Chōsokabe in 1600 by Lord of Imabari, Todo Takatora (1556-1630) was reconstructed. In the Meiji period (1868-1912) under the law for the separation of Buddhism and Shinto, the statue of Daitsū Chishō Nyorai, transferred to escort two statues and 16 other statues in the temple hall. This was the temple become independent. 1945, all buildings except the Daishihalle and the Goma ritual hall were destroyed, the Daishihalle served since 1916 as the main hall and was replaced in 1981 by a new main hall. The
Honzon (main deity) Daitsū Chishō Nyorai is very unusual, he does not really belong to the 13 Buddhas of the Shingon Buddhism. The Buddha that appears in the Hokke-Kyo (Lotus Sutra) is the Nichiren school of Buddhism attributable, where he is in the Sutra as "the Enlightened One before Shaka Nyorai described.
During the shrine with his Inari foxes was quite pretty but, especially with the carvings, the gate of the temple No. 55 is a force. With a total of four guardian figures that all look relatively new and are in harmony with their light wood very nice with the gold. Here begins a vast terrain for a "temple city" with massive stone lanterns. You may park here even right on the temple grounds, which I think is not that great, because a car has to look at a photo of a venerable temple nothing. Fire extinguishers by the way not because it is deprived of the illusion that even Kobo Daishi was able to enjoy the sight. But on the temple grounds you will always find bad things, in addition to the aforementioned fire extinguishers and fixed extinguishing spray, yes complete fire trucks include. Can also be parked cars and large tour buses in the true holy site, you feel more like a city than before, as in a temple. But luckily I meet mostly in the temples, if not overwhelm so many visitors the site. Usually I'm up to two, three pilgrims even alone.
On the way to Temple No. 56 I have no problems with the orientation, since I only run about 3 km straight ahead. Passing the Imabari Station, before the black taxis waiting for customers, I have to overcome to enter the Taisanji only a small podium.
Digression No. 56 Temple Taisanji (泰山 寺)
"The Temple of the Peaceful Mountain "or as it was originally translated" the mountain of easy birth, was 815 from Kobo Daishi due to a phenomenon which he had during a 7-day ritual, dedicated to Jizo Bosatsu. The nearby river was soy, then periodically overflow their banks and tore many people, he was of the inhabitants also Hitotori Gawa (river, the people from floods "; River killer) called. The Daishi wanted to tame the river and during the ritual seemed Jizo Bosatsu. After he had built a dam to carve the statue of Jizo, and founded the temple, then still on the mountain top. 824 were the building increased to 7 and this place of worship of the emperor Junwa (786-840, 53 Tennō) perspectives. In 1690 the temple was destroyed by a fire and once again built at the foot of the mountain. The main hall was built in 1954, the bell tower, the wood of the drum hall of the Castle is Imabrai, constructed in 1881. The Daishi Hall (daishidō) is from 1985. Kobo Daishi has planted pine trees to protect, if the dam should ever break out of a tree and was told that he could always re-sprout. This tree, wasurezu-no-matsu ("forget-not-Pine") called, but died in 1982 and was replaced by a new plant.
on the pine tree I was particularly looking forward to although there is a new planting. It is characterized by a bamboo screen and a stone with symbol characters (Kanji) not be overlooked. But this temple I will remain very different in mind, as I welcomed here, a small white dog, as I will let the "pilgrims switches" Pilgrims my book (nokyochō) sign. I find that a temple for almost anything indecent, as the dog, to which are still joined by a second, there must be rumturnen on the shelf board. But here in Japan be so. Small children and small animals, which are considered as children may spare, almost everything, be verpäppelt and then you wonder that it is no longer their master. Other countries - Other customs. Note in this temple or the beautifully designed stone lantern, the improvised small pond and Kobo Daishi statue, which faces a panorama of houses.
On the next leg of Temple No. 57, the orientation is made more difficult by a construction site in front of the temple, I do not find the trail and walk on the card. But on the side seam of the map book, I lose my way, I walk through rice fields, I walk out - I think her run and eventually even a temple. This is annoying if you expectantly in front of a temple stands, and then discovers that it is the wrong one. This temple, located on a small mountain, is in my maps do not even recorded. I am told in the temple, the temple is sought on the other side of the mountain, but where I am now, can show me any. When I get out but on the other hand, it is the way in which I came. Frustrated I take a break in a pilgrim refuge, which is also not recorded. I wonder if I should open my last box of grapes or shower they prefer for the nullifying of emergency. Otherwise one runs continuously past the vending machines, but if you take an urgent need, there is none. An abbreviation of the slope at a water reservoir high, leading me through the forest. Desperately, I search for a road. Can tell me my sense of direction deceiving because so much? Finally I discover a small, blue road sign, which I follow, and so finally after all in Eifukuji country. I had drawn my bow probably just too big and I landed, therefore, on the other side of the mountain.
Digression No. 57 Temple Eifukuji (栄 福寺)
"The temple of happiness" was by Kobo Daishi on the orders of the Emperor Sage (786-842, 52nd emperor) was founded. When the Daishi here of a ship in distress in the storm stopped, he climbed the mountain and held a Futo Goma fire ritual. calming On the last day of the ritual, the lake and a light shone from the water - Amida Nyorai appeared to him. Between 810 and 824, he carved the Honzon (chief deity), built a temple and dedicated it to the Amida Hall. 859 stranded here a monk named Goko Daianji from the Temple in Nara. He had been sent by the Emperor Saga to the USA on Kyushu, one of the main islands of Japan west of Shikoku, the Shinto Hachiman Shrine in order to take an oracle for the Emperor in reception or ask the Shinto kami (deities), the emperor Otoko to get the mountain in southern Kyoto. When the stranded but the Eifukuji went up, it reminded him very much on the mountain Otoko. He received here the oracle of Hachiman, which he thought he had manifested in the form of the Amida Nyorai. Therefore, he built on the hill several Warehouses and thus founded the Katsuoka Hachiman Shrine, flowed together in Buddhism and Shintoism. He who prays can pray here, both for safety at sea and for good luck. The complex burned down several times and was nearly a century in obscurity. In the Meiji period (1868-1912) temple and shrine, however, were separated and moved from the mountain peak to their present locations. Most of the buildings were renovated during this time. Noteworthy in the temple is the Jizo Onegai that the pilgrims who pay homage to fulfill his wishes. The ash from the incense burner of Yakushidō (Hall of Yakushi) is by some pilgrims take home, they should protect against disease.
I think at this temple, especially the roof turret very interesting, is not always the usual dragons. Buddha's footprints are probably also work wonders - as in the other temples. It is set up for the weary pilgrims even a stone sitting area with a frog. A break, I really need in my Odyssey, and wonder if I in my present happiness ever find accommodation. I
Eliminate all cases still No. 58 and No. 59 to visit, since there is no accommodation far and wide and hope that I will not get lost again. But the road to Senyūji (Temple No. 58) is lighter than expected. I must indeed loud card back into higher Fields go, but they are then suspected but not as steep as.
Digression No. 58 Temple Senyūji (仙游 寺)
"The Temple of secluded hermit 'was in the 7th Ochi Morioki century, Lord of the province of Iyo at the foot of the mountain Sarei order of the Emperor Tenchi (662-672, 38th emperor) was founded. He built the temple and made the Senju Kanzeon Bosatsu Honzon (main deity). The current temple name is based on a hermit named Abo, here the beginning of the 8th Century recited sutras for forty years and then disappeared under mysterious circumstances. The figure of the main deity is shrouded in legends also. On the one hand, a good little girl have the Gohonzon (the main deity) carved, wherein they threw three times after each cut. Therefore the inhabitants call the temple as "Osarei" which refers to the prostration during carving. The other is the Gohonzon from the Palace of the Dragon King under the sea originate. A third legend mixes the two, and describes a female dragon who should be here have been at work artistically. According to Frederick Starr was, the university professor with a passion for old name list (osam fuda), which I had mentioned at Temple 53, is the statue of Kannon Künster Unkei (1151-1223) created. He is for his, then new, realistic-style sculpture of famous and it should also come the guards statues (NIO). As Kobo Daishi 810-824 came here, he found only ruins, and built seven buildings. Another famous visitor was the priest Yuren, in the Meiji period (1868-1912) drew many believers to the temple. They say he died when he was buried alive in order to save mankind. 1947 attack on a forest fire to the temple complex, and destroyed all the buildings. In 1953, the Hondo (main hall) built in the following year, the Daishi Hall (Daishi-do) and in 2003 built a huge Koyasu Kannon. Also, the path to the temple has statues of Kannon that the Saikoku, or pilgrimage to the 33 temples of Kannon in the area to Kansai, ie around Osaka remember. Noteworthy is a well which lies on the path between the gate and temple. The Daishi is said to have created him to heal the villagers of various diseases. There is also a story about a dog that was used as a messenger between the temples Eifukuji (Temple No. 55) and Senyūji (Temple No. 56). When he was but now simultaneously launched by two temples by a bell, he knew not whither to rush first. In desperation, the poor animal who committed suicide in a pond ike today Inutsuka, "Dog Memorial Pond," is called.
up to the gate guard figures with beautiful, bright and without wire, it was not difficult, but now begin again to my beloved stairs. There's even a railing there on which may lift the weary pilgrims. But where is the Koyasu Kannon, the huge statue of Kannon, which is described in the Temple guide? Da Kannon is the main deity in the temple, the road is not paved with Jizo figures, but with Kannon figures, symbolizing the Saikoku, the pilgrimage of 33 temples in the area canon Kansai (Osaka, Kyoto, Nara, etc.). I will visit the Shikoku after shooting my tour as well, even if I did not hike entirely, but would rather ride. The temple has everything a decent temple must have only the pilgrim accommodation which is built on stilts on the hillside, with its modern design is not fit to do so. The view from here is breathtaking, overlooking the plain, overlooking the sea and even a few small islands and is definitely the view from there, even better, but I like the building is not easy. I get as a pilgrim gift (osettai) still given a card from someone who has one of a kind of ticket sales booth. But I leave the temple and rushing down the mountain. On the trail, I'm straight on the road and also the tap, leading to Chikurinji, I'll be right next to pardon, so I do not get lost again. One is blind and sometimes really does not see the forest for the bamboo, but the Inutsuka Ike ("dog pond") I have not yet found it. Unless it was the little pond in front of the pilgrim's office or the larger pond on the way to Temple No. 59, which I photographed a heron. It is not even clock 15.00 and I only have to visit Temple No. 59, which again is closer to the coast and should not be a problem. But one should not praise the day before the evening, because today I have often tangled enough. I walk by Sakurai and see a whole chain of carp streamers (koinobori). Without major problems I enter the temple Kokubuji, unfortunately, this temple a goal.
Digression No. 59 Temple Kokubunji (国 分 寺)
741 was this Kokubunji ("province Temple") of Gyōgi (668-749), as in all other 66 former provinces of Japan, on the orders of Emperor Shomu (701-756; 45 emperor) was founded. The others are Kokubjunjis Temple No. 15 for the Prefecture Awa / Tokushima, Temple No. 29 for Tosa / Kōchi and Temple No. 80 for Sanuki / Kagawa. Gyōgie has also carved the statue of Yakushi Nyorai, venerated as Honzon (chief deity) in the Hondo (main hall). In the early 9th Century as Chissho Saishi (814-891) was the head temple, to Kobo Daishi have stayed here and the 5 Buddhas (go butsu) of the Shingon Buddhism have carved or painted. Particulars of the temple's leaders not clear, unfortunately, unique. In any Cases, these five Buddhas, with the top Dainichi Nyorai, for the 5 wisdom to anger, envy, desire, ignorance and pride and should help the faithful to enlightenment. The five-colored ribbons and flags that you see in the temples, symbol of the "Furious Five". Also a student of the Daishi, Prince Shinnyo is said to have stayed here for 2 years and copied during this time, the Lotus Sutra. In the 10th and 12 th century by troops of Fujiwara Sumitomo (814-891) during the battles between the Genji and Taira clan destroyed, the Lord of Iyo rebuilt. After 1584 were Chōsokabe Motochika troops from the temple left only a small building. 1789 built the 43rd Temple chief Eko a new main hall and other buildings could restore
This is the only temple on the pilgrimage, which belongs to the Shingon Ritsu Buddhism. A joint initiative of Shingon technology with the more stringent interpretation of the rules for the Congregation of the Ritsu. Most significant in this temple, the museum of ancient writings, is a pine tree (matsu emperor; "Kaiserpinie"), which was planted by the Emperor Shomu to pray for healing, and the grave of Nitta Yoshisada. He was a samurai, one of the most famous generals of his time and captured by a stratagem, the then Shogunatssitz in Kamakura, thereby sealing the end of the Hoho Government or the end of the Kamakura period. There is a figure Kobo Daishi, who can shake his hand, but it is also urged to express only a wish, as the Daishi was a busy man. In addition, there is a large, black vase, called Yakushi Tsubo. Who rubs his request should also be fulfilled.
Kobo Daishi, the figure is here to shake hands at the entrance, but currently do have other pilgrims shake hands with the Daishi. I am therefore a little, recite sutras and my photos of the seven lucky gods that Wunschvase Yakushi Tsubo and the pine tree can not hide from me. My day is saved, I Although'm totally broken, but despite initial difficulties, I have orientation that day brought to a successful end. Now I just have to find a rental, but keeps me on the way back to the seller of the store, which is directly in front of the temple. He sold here, especially towels to the pilgrims, but I can not lug much anyway, I wanted to buy anything. But the Lord is on it, I want to spend an ice cream. I refuse because I am afraid in my situation drained a response to the cooling of my stomach. But the Bandit press the right buttons with me and so I feel obliged to label the pilgrims, I sit a short time later in his working space with a vanilla ice cream in hand. He proudly shows me his embroidery machine with which he can provide towels with designs and logos. Only the communication is a little tough. He asks me for my "favorite words" (favorite word) and gives me his business card. So I see myself compelled to give him my card also. That was a mistake because now he has the template for the embroidery: In Japanese symbol characters (Kanji) Shikoku pilgrimage, including my name in Latin letters (Romaji). In memory of my pilgrimage tour, as he says, and asks me, along with the towel to pose for a photo. On one wall he shows me the foreigners, of which he has already taken pictures. I say it again - Japanese collect the strangest things, and in this case with foreigners towels! As I remove my pilgrim must not, I look sweaty determined total, I leave it wash over me. I take my friendly thank you gifts for the pilgrims, the delicious vanilla ice cream and march on, since I still have to find accommodation must be laudatory.
I still walk as 6 km, then there are the first hotels mentioned in the map. But this is probably a collection of resort hotels that have settled around the Yunoura Onsen. I wander through the canyons and hotel must swallow, as these hotels an exclusive and luxurious, that is , Expensive to impress. I wanted to stay in Tachibanan Bekkan, but do not find it. As a motorist myself on the deserted road meets, I consider him to abruptly and asked for the hotel. He knows himself apparently does not, however, pulls out his cell phone to find out more. The Bekkan's probably not, but the hotel Tachibana here is just around the corner. I had actually done on foot, but the Lord does not take, take me by car to the door of the hotel and the doorman to describe my problem. I am again saved, but is the room without food for 5400 yen, but essentially a roof over your head, it buzzes me through my brain. The Porter asks me out a plate of pizza, even though I tell him that I'm not hungry. As I have on my Irrtour no combining (24-hour shop) found for shopping, I have no food, but I do a damn right now. I want to crawl only showers and a futon. A vending machine in the lobby, I prefer me two doses and in conjunction with the emergency ration biscuits should fill my stomach for the night. But the doorman can not give up when I take a piece, he makes big eyes and holds out to me the plate. It is certainly his dinner, I have a guilty conscience, but he seems really happy that I now take it to the plate the way to my room. But so great the room is not for me. It is too hot, not even the air conditioning creates the heat, I tear open the windows. After a shower, even here there is only boiling hot water, I eat my pizza and for dessert, the cookies. I'm really ready, that's when the 30 km net, without turning round and calculated bleeding, no wonder.
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