The 39th Day in Japan whacked I wake up here right by the station - in constant Schrankengebimmel, lights flickering and wobbling, I hardly get fed an eye. There are no curtains and every time I turned around, the wooden base has squeaked. My breakfast now consists of the remaining banana and a small cake the day before. When I was about 6:00 clock to march in the direction of Temple No. 83 lead story, I draw myself a "breakfast Cola vending machines in front of the ryokan. The Trail zigzags through a residential area. It's very complicated, not to miss the trail, because you must turn right at exactly the right intersection.
I see a lot of smaller fields, passing a bonsai nursery and try to make calls on a gray (ISDN) telephone to Germany. Here in the land of mobile phones and UMTS, where everyone without "Cell phone" is a hermit, it's a fluke or to find a public phone. They are working in several color variants, of which the orange only for local calls, and the green even with national and international calls. A special case are the gray phones that have an ISDN line and connections have for computers. Making calls with as an "International & Domestic Card", I bought the "KDDI Super World Card", then once more a science sich.Während at first I thought the phones to be defective, as there was no dial tone and no display indicating something if you picked up the phone, I later came the idea that now not all the phones could be faulty. And - surprise, surprise - after they had thrown a coin, the machine began its work record. If one wants to call with such a phone card, the card is not in the traditional sense, one must first enter the whole tail of numbers that is noted on the card or paper. But one must not tap too quickly, because you must wait for the computer voice at the other end. If one also takes the correct country code (49) and selects those without "0" and the German area code, you can be hopeful that after entering the phone number at the other end someone reports. Unless you have miscalculated and calls in the middle of the night at home. About 8 hours time difference makes the timing right to connect to the desired target. I even had a cell phone or can rent a SIM card for a cell phone, the sale to foreigners in the wake of the Anti-terrorism Act was illegal, but I was not able to guarantee that the devices in the mountains and on the rural island Shikoku would work. So I had decided not to even though you are in the airport of Kansai quite Shops for such purposes.
But back to the trail that I intended to bring my first goal for today, Temple No. 83. Three pilgrimage to this small 35 liter backpacks overtake me, but otherwise we salute and move our way. While they follow the zigzag trail under the Takamatsu Expressway (highway), I run here at the river on a koto as excellent cycling path. The river bed is broad. As the river does not cause so much water, the shore areas are lush green. Herons and other wildlife frolic here. From time to time sometimes passes by a cyclist. Since the Japanese bikes have always been extremely short saddles, so that the distance to the pedals is very small, the driver always remember the saying "Monkey on grinding stone." The knees are drawn to occur before the body is always very high, it looks uncomfortable more like BMX riding than as a relaxing bike ride. But in any case, these "grinding stone monkey" faster progress than I am. Now I have to watch that I catch the right bridge, so I think the way to the temple. If I cross the bridge, I would have to meet soon on a "Koban" said Polizeibox. These are small houses or containers in the local knowledge does a police officer service. If you lose your way and do not find an address here in Japan the streets are not named anyone can ask you here. But large blue road signs to show me the way to Ichinomiyaji Temple (No. 83) and give me more information that temple 84 (Yashimiaji) in 18 km away. Near I will probably have to search my property.
Digression No. 83 Temple Ichinomiyaji (一 宫 寺)
"The first Shrine Temple" was 704 of the monk scholars and representatives of the Buddhist-Hosso shū school Gien (644-728) under the name "Daho-in" established . 716 First he got the present name, which refers to the Tamura shrine in his courtyard. At that time was by imperial order, each province a provincial shrine ("Ichinomyia"). But according to temple leaders, it was Gyōgi (668-749), who renamed the temple at that time. Between 806 and 810 the temple-shrine by Kobo Daishi rebuilt it as a carving Honzon (main deity) a standing Sho Kannon figure and brought them in today's Daishidō (Daishi Hall) below. Like many other temples on Shikoku and the Ichinomiyaji burned in the 16th Century low. 1679, temple and shrine on the orders of the ruler of Takamatsu, Yorish Matsudaira, officially separated from each other and 1701 as Sanuki Ichinomiya ("Shrine Temple of Sanuki) was reconstructed. Note the many small Shinto Tori (red gates) through which the pilgrim must crawl on their knees so that he can free himself of bad karma and evil powers. "Ichinomiya Goryo" are the three stone towers called the 13-century Century (probably 1247) and are the three gods of the shrine Tamura, the legendary Emperor Qurei (342-215 BC; 7 Tennō) are Momosohime and Isosaseri-no-Mikoto, dedicated. While I can still see the former is about the other two not to be found on the web. I guess that maybe is a princess because the word "hime" suggesting. But there are many homophones (same-sounding words) in Japanese, I'm not sure. Also "Mikoto is only an honorary title (" Illustrious ") for Shintogötter (kami) as the" Nyorai "the Buddhist Honorary title ("enlightened one") for Buddha's. But I would like to mention "Jigoku no kama", the "cauldron of hell" that if you put as sinful pilgrim's head in this low "stone oven" to close its doors and the head is pinched, if not worse.
The temple entrance is the Ichinomiyaji Sanmon equipped with a simple, although the term "Bergtor" does not quite fit, since the temple is just not at or on a mountain. I am looking first to the pretty toilets, instead of a sink here a stone basin with dipper. After I recited my sutras I roam the grounds. While I was low "Tori-Baby" can not find, I look to the "hell boiler. But the other details, like the statues, a closed lotus flower, the funny roof turret in the form of an ox and his farm, and the sanctuary with its beautiful lanterns it did to me. I find a nice corner with a lantern and moss-grown stone, if not for the ugly water channel would extend from the roof, it would be really effective. Now I have to continue and as I continue to follow the trail, I realize that I once again enter the temple through the back door: there is the magnificent Gate, both NiO (guardian figures) and huge straw sandals (Waraji) has. I follow the road No. 172 On the way to No. 84 Temple me come back at a Lawson combining (24-hour store) one. I buy a travel kit to brush your teeth, because I pose a toothpaste slow and I want to carry along no big tube. I too first before anything else to eat, because I like to make Ritsurin Park, a famous landscape garden, a break. Since I am of the opinion to be in good time, I treat myself to a visit today. Before the park, I get more money from the Post. When I consider how much we had problems initially with the fundraising, I am glad that there are so many post offices There. Taxis wait in front of the park, they are usually pitch black and you often see the driver with clean dusters the surface. Japanese taxi drivers as very conscientious. I myself could not say if there's a grain of dust is situated on it or not, but the principle is so: Everything must be perfect!
When I reach the Ritsurin Park, I know first not know where it goes in and I know already, but where can I buy a ticket. Mistakenly, I enter the administration building where I am greeted with questioning eyes and then referred to the ticket house. One has a choice, a ticket for a person to buy or pull from the machine. Service in Japan is still "very important" and if a queue at the counter should not be too long, you can also use the machines themselves. On the Ritsurin Park, famous been created here over 300 years and in all of Japan! A sign can be seen that there is in particular referred to the cherries, Wisteria (Wisteria) and azaleas, as well as a shrub here, "Dogwood" (bush dog), flourish. The latter belongs to the family of the Dogwood family and is known in Germany as "cornelian cherry". It is a shrub whose flower consists of four white petals in the middle of a green "bumps" in later developed for the edible fruit. But I will when walking through the park, unfortunately I can only visit a small part, surprised by a bunch of cats. Here I am still a break with cream-filled buns, where I can watch the young cats who play with the koi carp or form about one, they could capture the fish? The park is beautiful!
digression Riturin Park (by a sign in the park)
"It is believed that this park goes back to the garden, near the Shōfuda Genki and Tansho era (1572-1593) was built by local rulers Sato . Around the year 1625 by the ruler of Sanuki, Ikoma Takatoshi, the construction of a garden on the Südteiche picturesken Shiu mountain in the background, initiated. This was transferred to Yorish Matsudaira, older brother of Mito Mitsukuni, lord of Takamatsu in 1642. After 100 years of the enlargement and improvement by the next ruler, the park was under the reign of the 5th completed Yoritaka ruler in 1745. Until the Meiji Restoration, 11 generations, the Ritsurin Park as the second residence of the Matsudaira family was used. The park consists of two parts - the South Garden and the north garden, with a total of 6 ponds and 13 rocks. The north garden, which was once used for duck hunting, was in the early 20th Century in the modern garden transformed to be visited here today. "
is another sign of a group of pine (pine) regarded as relevant during a visit by members of the Japanese and the British royal family were planted by hand. It counts for 1914 Prince Chichibu, Prince Takamatsu and the then Crown Prince and future Emperor of Japan Hirohito (1926-1989), with the pine tree of the latter in 2005 fell victim to a lightning strike. 1922 was the uncle of Queen Elizabeth II, Prince of Wales Albert Edward, also known as Edward VIII, who renounced the throne for love. And in 1923 Princess Nagako, empress and wife Kojun Hirohito, as well as in 1925 Princess Kitashirakawa.
The park with its many bridges, ponds with turtles and even a tea house is wonderful. Everything is so green and pretty generous, so that you forget the concrete jungle of the city. Only the water-lily bloom, unfortunately, not yet in their full glory.
Now I make myself but back on track. But when I choose among the skyscrapers of the city of Takamatsu, which translates as "high pine", walking down, passes me a car and braked suddenly just behind me. I'm waiting, that what happens is that someone gets out - but non-existent. Finally, finally has a woman jumps out of the car and passes me a can of tea and a turtle-shaped key chain with much bowing and "Ohenro-san" ("honorable woman pilgrim"). I want to thank me yet, but she has jumped into the car again. My God - so here are the Japanese girls!
a while I run on road No 11 along, do the tap to Yashima plateau on which the temple is 84, do not miss me. But I have something completely different in mind, as I observe in the nearby river wild turtles. After a quick glance at the map stand firm my plans: I want to close the station Kotoden Yashima-check into the hostel, leave my luggage there and visit the rest of the day the Temple No. 84th But I once again do not expect the Japanese Flown characteristics, because when I finally plagued the steep street and found access to the hostel have is the barricaded. The building looks abandoned, although a sign gave me hope that it is looking for youth hostel. In the neighborhood I'm looking for people who could give me information. Fortunately, I find some volunteers who govern here probably the non-existent traffic. A passing pilgrims strolling on me gives me a chocolate candy, but Smalltalk is difficult because he speaks no English again, I do not know why he travels these high since only the toll highway runs up the trail to the temple or on the other side goes along. I'm frustrated me back on the trail and try to explore the registered accommodation. But nil, here are so many houses and the demand of the volunteers showed no clear answer on where and whether the other accommodations are found here. So I make myself so then on the way to visit the temple and the Yashimaji with full packs! I drag me up here the path lined with stone slabs, but must verpusten me at a red Cola Bank. It's so steep that signs point to it so that one does not fall. But at some point I am then before the first of the entrance gates, which is equipped with conventional NiO (guardian statues). The second goal has no wooden guard but made of metal, the more, in a beautifully designed, me standing on a Chinese screen, reminiscent, wood construction.
Digression No. 84 Temple Yashimaji (屋 岛 寺)
"The Temple of the roof Island" would reflect the importance of the Kanji, but perhaps also "temple on the plateau", as there is the Yashima Plateau, where the temple could have stood before it by Kobo Daishi, the South has been added. Before the temple was zan Nanmen ("mountain who looks after the South ") and is 754 by a Chinese monk called Chen-Chinen (Japanese Ganjin) have been incorporated under the name Fugendō on his way to Osaka. Later Keiun Ritsushi here built a hall and became the first high priest. 815 Kobo Daishi then mounted on the orders of Emperor Saga (786-842, 52 emperor), the mountain and gave the temple not only to the south, but converted it from the Shingon Ritsu school as a temple. According to legend, the Daishi was shown around by an old man with a raincoat on the misty mountain. This should be once a Tanuki (Mader dog) have been since been transformed by the goddess Kannon in the people and their Tasaburō Yashima now should have served as a messenger. Then have the Daishi, the Main Hall (Hondo) set up in one night and for them the statue of elfgesichtigen (juuichimen) and 1000-armed (Senju) Kannon carved. End of the 12th Century found near here one of the last battles of the "Gempei wars" ("Taira-Minamoto War), a confrontation of rival Minamoto (or Genji) and Taira (or Heike) clans, instead. The conflict began in 1156 The Kaiser abdicated Sutoku, we have already known, and the reigning emperor Go-Shirakawa, his half-brother, had significant differences that led to a military confrontation. assisted in this conflict Taira by Taira Kioyomori the reigning emperor and won. The Minamoto were still on the losing side this time, their chief was executed. After five years of war and many battles, 1185 was the decisive naval battle takes place at Danoura, emerged from the Minamoto successful. Minamoto Yoritomo of I had in connection with the Hogen Rebellion (1156) already reported. This took advantage of the occupying state of Japan, to install its Kamakura government and related government tent (bafuku), actually government officials. The museum on the temple site is dedicated to this penultimate battle. There are relics, armor, and picture scrolls depicting the history of the two rival clans. A Bell of 1223 remains a reminder of the decline of the Taira.
This is already an impressive temple complex: the museum with his post-modern design, the stone figures Tanuki (raccoon dog) with the shrine and the many large and small buildings. The countless statues and especially the large square in front really make an impression on me. But I will not stay long because I need to change my plans. Now that I have fulfilled my obligations pilgrims, I make myself back on track, but this time on the other side of the mountain to Gokenzan on which waits for the next temple to me. For this I must, however, re-run all the way down into town, then through the port area hinaufzukraxeln again the next Temple Mount. Should I go by the beautiful view I have from here break loose again, but on my way down I meet always interesting places. Signs provide information which heroes have been killed. While I was at the beginning on the leaves, which are on the trail, almost slipped, I would have probably not yet allowed to vote this steep trail, the way forward for some time takes on the aforementioned highway, only to run through a residential area. Here I met two old ladies who push up their shopping with a wheelbarrow up the steep slope. With a heartfelt "Ganbatte" (Do your best;! Only courage) I try to award the two older ladies courage. But then the two ladies keep fit, which are not destined to die lack of exercise. It is now nearly 16.00 clock, I lie well in the time to even absorb the temple in my pilgrimage book. But the Henrozeichen are not clear - fortunately, I can see from the distance a cable car station. I vertüddel although shortly before in a residential area, but then still take the funicular railway to the temple. There is no lift in the strict sense, but a rail car that is pulled by a rope up the mountain. Together with some older ladies and gentlemen then I fall short before 17.00 clock from the Train to the pilgrim office.
Digression No. 85 Temple Yakuriji (八 栗 寺)
"The temple of the eight chestnut" is on the Gokensan, "five swords Mountain," and both names go back to legends that Kobo Daishi concern. Before traveling 804 Kobo Daishi to China, he buried here toasted 8 (!) Chestnut, who, after he had returned from his trip were grown to 8 stately trees.
When the 827 here Daishi took the Morning Star Meditation (Gumonjihō), he published five swords and the Shinto deity Zao Gong, which it drew attention to the sacredness of the mountain. The swords buried he in a cave and founded the temple. Since the mountain had also five large rocks on the top, the name was not unfounded. As Honzon (chief deity), he carve a sho Kannon figure. The temple flourished fell, but in the 16th Century Chōsokabe troops victim and was burnt down. Between 1592 and 1596 renewed the temple, a priest named mooing, 1642 the ruler of Takamatsu. 1709 the Temple of Yoritoyo Matsudaira (1680-1735) was moved to its present location. In the Shot Hall of 1676 (also Kangiten Hall) in the elephant-headed Hindu deity Ganesha is worshiped, whose statue is supposed to come by Kobo Daishi. In any case, the statue every 50 years to the public presented, it represents success in the job, harmonious relationships and general happiness - for a lifetime.
after the entry in my book Pilgrims (nokyocho), I can confidently fulfill my obligations and pilgrims to look around in peace on the premises. This temple and shrine to tell them apart is difficult, even the temple waiting for the pilgrims with strange painted green guard figures. There are statues in abundance, stone, metal and wood. Kannon as Honzon (chief deity), a seated statue of a priest, perhaps mooing? After a short flight of stairs a mini tour of the 88 temple pilgrimage, and the 13 Buddhas of the Shingon Buddhism. In the rock are niches in which work Buddhas stand Gorintos (5-point stone towers) are also carved into the rock. On a hidden area between the buildings, I discover a collection of Getas (wooden sandals) and Strohsanalen in all sizes - what's so good about? I wonder when the sun goes down, here where I could find accommodation. In the temple is not in scope as it offered no Shokubō (temple lodging). I could sleep in the hut next to the cable car station, but I do not know how cold it can be on the mountain. I pass another row of shops and stand in front of a stone lantern, as I notice the fantastic views of Takamatsu. So in effect the sunset All very idyllic. According to maps, there are two ryokan. So I take my heart in my hand and just push the door to the first building on the left hand and shout loudly "sumimasen. And - surprise, surprise - there is even someone I can ask for a room. The host can wait for me with a glass of iced tea, because my room has to be drawn and prepared. You probably had not expected so late with guests. I pay 3350 yen for the night, without food, but fortunately I had stashed enough food to contest for both dinner and breakfast it.
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