The 35th Day in Japan When I wake up today with the sunrise, I could hardly sleep. Peacocks were screaming in the night, I heard music, flushing the toilet adjacent cottage, Mosquitoes buzzing around me and not to forget the "Water Harp" I have kept awake half the night. For breakfast there are the remains of mochi (rice cakes) and cookies from the Pilgrim dinner. My tendonitis in the wrists is back and hurt the knee. I shoot quickly a few pictures of the coin on the beach and then wander through the Kotohiki Hachimangu Shrine Temple No. 70 in the direction Quickly, I'm "warmed up" and can take off my fleece jacket. I walk in layers, ie several layers of clothing on each other to always dressed appropriately for the temperature to be. Unfortunately I do if I take off a garment will, first remove the hat, small bag and large bag, which lasts till one then has umgeplünnt.
The sun burns from the sky, it is intended 25 ° C. I make short stop at a Family Mart (24-h-Shop), in which I have for breakfast a "Nikuman", a pastry filled with minced meat, strawberry milk and a grudge. On the way to Temple No. 70, there is no shadow, I walk on Saitagawa river, photographing still a colony of turtles and herons, hiding in the greens. I have finally reached after about 4.5 kilometers my first goal for today. I jumped at the gate is a cat with green throat bang opposite. Of course Scratch the gray tiger I able to get a lap before I enter the temple - so much time must be!
Digression No. 70 Temple Motoyamaji (本 山寺)
"The head temple was 807 of Kobo Daishi, at the behest of the emperor Heizei (806-809; 51st emperor) was established to protect the nation. The temple has been at its peak, with 24 Subtempeln, the largest island of Shikoku and Chōsokabe Motochika wanted to make him once headquarters to rule over the province of Sanuki. According to legend, Kobo Daishi, the Main Hall (Hondo) have accomplished in a single night. Others say that he had the whole temple built in one night. In any case, the Temple of the horse-headed Kannon Bato was consecrated, as was the wizard of the Daishi statue of Amida and Yakushi Nyorai Nyorai aside. The statue of Amida Nyorai (also Amitaabha Tathaagata) is famous and is also "Fachi Mida-no-uke" (wounded Amida Buddha) called. The name comes from a legend, why the temple was burned by the troops never Chōsokabe. The then chief priest was killed in the attempt to prevent the intrusion of soldiers into the temple. When the soldiers on the Hondo (main hall) rushed, they discovered one on his arm bleeding statue of Amida. The injury was very reminiscent of that of the murdered priest, times quite apart from that do not bleed wooden statues in general. Thus, the Chōsōkabe troops were expelled, although some say it has been his an aggressive swarm of bees, which the attacker on the run. As it is - worth the five-story pagoda, whose first Original stage still to come by Kobo Daishi (niōmon) the Wächtertor, which dates from 1147, and the main hall of 1300 They are protected as "Important Cultural Property." In 1910, the pagoda from the chief priest Yoritomi Miki was renovated in 1955, the Hondo (main hall). The latter counts as only one in the Kagawa Prefecture of "National Treasure".
When I get through the temple gate, I remember now a Japanese woman with very short hair that sweeps the place here. When she sees me, she comes up to me and gives me a Osettai (pilgrims present) consisting of a packet of biscuits and licorice candy. In the latter, I'm not sure, but they had a very good flavor, though licorice is less accurately known as Marzipan in Asia. They may not look like a pilgrim, although she is wearing a backpack, but maybe she is a parishioner who sweeps the side lying in wait for pilgrims and a little bit. Here I admire the beautiful five-story pagoda. Under trees on a rock, which is planted with azaleas, is a weathered Statue. I do not think it is Kobo Daishi, perhaps the monk, who died while trying to protect the temple Chōsōkabe troops. The top riders are nice, leaping lions and even a horse I can see. Side of the halls are also two horse statues, but not those as they are found in shrines, where they have been issued in honor of the noble steeds of war. The two here seem more natural, as it would just graze on the pasture.
The pilgrim's office would find too difficult for me when I see the sign "纳 経 所" with the Chinese character (Kanji) could not have read. It is to grow in a separate building, on the forecourt a few palm trees. In general, on the temple grounds signs in the form of a small, blue-haired boy placed the way to the Hondo (本 堂, Central Hall) show Daishidō (大师 堂;; Daishi Hall) and Nokyoshō (pilgrim office 纳 経 所). Most halls of the temple itself is noted whether it is the Hondo or Daishidō. But among the many other writings, which are here mounted on wooden beams and plates, just to find the sought, is a task in itself. I'm back on the track as the next temple is located about 11 miles away. I just need the stubborn road No. 11 run along and do not miss the turning to road No. 221st But the tour is now somewhat long, and the burning sun and with such an asphalt path running up to me then quickly the feet hot.
I see again a bicycle pilgrimage, but I have trouble with my backpack sitting by my bad then fused hip pad. I admire the pretty carp flags (koinobori) and on a Japanese toy store, I was racing just before the shop window. This is a particularly business, because here no plastic toys "Made in China" sold, but the high-quality, mostly hand-crafted, traditional Japanese toys that exhibited in display cases are. Among them are small samurai armor, weapons or miniature dolls. Maybe these are the counterparts to the stairs dolls for girls. While the girl day so expensive dolls are issued to get the young samurai miniature accessories. That is also one of the specific seasonal decorations that adorn a traditional Japanese house for holidays.
When I combine a Circul-K (24-hour shop) come, I come across three young Englishmen. Through their casual look, I do not care to notice that there are no pilgrims or tourists well. In a small Pläuschchen then arises out also that they have hired as a language teacher. What should English speakers in Japan do then? They had been really looking forward to some small talk with me, I confess the one, as they tell me just now, when I ran along the street have seen. Actually, had the most hope for a country woman, but yet we have a nice conversation. Japanese passerby's eyes almost fall out of my head, as they see me and together have three. Thus, a casserole of foreigners coming here in the Japanese "Pampa" rare. But I must tear myself away, I will still create at least three temples, No. 71, 72 and 73. I walk through Mitoyo City, although there are more rural works. In front of me I can see pilgrims walk, I follow them, then do not need to be careful so as to find the right way. When the heat is not anyway you mentally on foot. I take advantage of every shadow, but instead add comfortable running in front of me, I feel like I'm going faster. Will I catch up with the others, I seek not leave me or I will at last only in the shade - I do not know. In any case, I actually fly up the hill to the temple, being careful not so much on the way to get past a Michi-no-eki-called service area, which here means "Fureai Park Mino, and must then make such a barking dog a "hard stop" to make. Apparently, I have come to a side road, so I now a laterally located row of shops stand. I watch the animal on his leash and then go very slowly out of his reach to the entrance of the temple. But I've done the whole thing yet, for a very long, very steep staircase leads upstairs. When I finally arrive above, I had stupid cow, but my heavy backpack and leave to stand down, I need to rest myself for now. But apparently I do not like this done, because a photographer asked me if he could make some pictures of me at the pool. I liked posing and when he is ready, I'm looking for the first time on the toilet, which is accessible only via a steel staircase. If one is not afraid of heights, you have to take over the visit of the "silent Ortchens resist "smooth, I think to myself.
Digression No. 71 Temple Iyadaniji (弥 谷 寺)
"The Temple of the 8 valley was of Gogi (668-749) at the behest of Emperor Shomu (724-749, 45th emperor;) founded. Originally the temple Yakuni-dera, the Temple of the 8 countries "was named as one of those days here a panoramic view across 8 provinces (eg Aki, Bingo, Bittchū, Bizen) had. The temple is Senju Kannon (Kannon thousand-) as the main deity (Gohonzon) dedicated, but was whether the statue of Kobo Daishi Gyōgi or created, remains open. As a boy, Kobo Daishi came here in as a lion's den (shishi no gankutsu) described cave to meditate. He is said to have also vowed to spread Buddhism. When he returned home from China to the study of Gumonji-ho (Morning Star meditation) five swords have fallen from heaven, therefore, the temple also known as 5-Swords Temple. On the cliff behind the temple, there are over 1500 images of Amida Buddha that were carved into the rock face, as well as pictures of stupas (reliquary towers) and the words "Namu Amida Butsu" (Mantra - Amida Buddha's word formula). Whether they come from Ippen Shonin (13th century) or by Kobo Daishi is not clear, it is presumed to between 13 and 15 Century arose. The temple is famous for his miraculous healings - crutches, prostheses and other medical equipment behind the main hall to give witness to this. Before this temple was added to the group of 88 temples, he was part of a small pilgrimage, which included the Temple of 71 to 78. Since the temple facilitate death (haka-sho) and, accordingly, the souls of the dead will gather here, many people brought the remains of their dead here. But these pilgrims chain was also on the pilgrimage of 88 temples as the chain of the first 10 (Temple No. 1 to No. 10). Interesting is the 6-meter-high copper statue of Kongōkyo Bosatsu, the chief priest of the Kakurin Genroku period (1688-1703) was created. Kongōkyo Bosatsu referring probably to the Enlightened (bosatsu) of the diamond mandala (Congo-kai) or its central Buddha Dainichi Nyorai, since a Kongōkyo Bosatsu actually not among the 13 classic Buddha is one of the Shingon. In the 16th Century, burned down all the buildings which were rebuilt in 1720 by Lord Ikoma of Sanuki. The Treasure Tower (tahōto), originally composed of rice fields by Emperor Shomu (701-756; 45 emperor) had been donated, was rebuilt 1877th The most famous image in the rock is "Magai bus doors", it shows Amida Nyorai with Kannon Bosatsu and Shoshi at his side. Shoshi Bosatsu is also a Buddha of the Shingon, probably If it is the former wife of Shoshi (988-1074) of the Emperor Go-Reizei (1046-1068, 70th emperor). While the 262 stone steps from Niōmon (Wächtertor) to the temple goes up, you can admire numerous Buddha statues.
When I visit the temple hall, I must take off your shoes here to get into the building and the temple office. Although I am also lazy, "aufzutüddeln my shoelaces, but above all I think of my poor fellow pilgrims. My "army boots" now exude a kind of mixture of Käsefuß and "wet dog aroma. No wonder I am chronologically 35 days between them on the go! I am Although already gone over, poke a bunch of incense sticks, when I leave in Genkan (floor) of a ryokan has, but that helps only temporarily. Here in Iyadaniji temple there is one, albeit convoluted, interior, both the Hondo (main hall) and the Dasihidō (Daishi Hall) includes. The pilgrims here are sitting on tatami mats (rice straw mats) and pray. When I leave this building, I pull my shoes back on solid, because I want to go higher because there are there to see the Tigers and the cave consists of three Buddhas "Magai Butus. The curiosity is driving me up in here I can see almost all the way, I ran this morning am. A wonderful view! When I make my way back, I fall on the stairs the signs on the trees: numbers and names, for example 48 Yamamono ("peach"?) In katakana (Japanese syllabary for technical terms) and in hiragana (Japanese syllabary everything else). Whether the same path is a natural history?
to next temple of pilgrimage is finally back on a trail through the forest. Initially accompany the way some small stone figures, I am again alone. I pass a pond and cross the Takamatsu Expressway. What I did at the beginning as a fish farm, as cormorants perched on floating net deferred have, but then turns out to be a golf course: from a sheltered shore section of the golfers can practice their marksmanship by hitting in one or the other network. After I found the tap to the temple by the road No. 11, it started looking up. I decided to visit first the higher temple, I must economize in the heat with my power.
Digression No. 73 Temple Shusshakaji (出 釈 迦 寺)
"The Temple of Sakkamuni appearance" was named after the seven years of Kobo Daishi here from the cliff (shashigatake - Springer cliff ") of the Mount Gahaishi jumped. He had vowed to save all living beings and with the jump in the deep, he wanted information about his chances died. He wanted to know if his affections would be crowned with success, otherwise it should be dying Buddha. But - surprise, surprise - Buddha Sakkamuni (historical Buddha) appeared with his heavenly Herscharen and rescued the boy. Later, the Daishi came again here to study the Gumonji-ho (Morning Star meditation) and to practice. He also carved the statue of Kokūzō Bosatsu and the inner shrine (Buddhist Ceremony) perspectives. The main deity in the temple is Shaka Nyorai, the Buddha, who had saved him from death. About 300 Years, the temple was moved from the hilltop near the cliff at the foot of the mountain. Only the Buddhist Ceremony ("inner sanctum"; shashin dake ga zenjō) is still high on the mountain. You can see the site well from the temple and is worth a visit. Also noteworthy, the pine / pine (kodakara no Sanku no matsu), whose three-part needles are worn on the body expect the blessing of children. At the top of the mountain is an ancient stone Gahaishi lie, worshiped mainly by old ascetics (Yamabushi?). On the way there (and Buddhist Ceremony) will be a hut Saigyô of the artist, which I will not mention it in the temple 72nd
As I enter the temple, speaks me of a Japanese man who has probably seen me in the temple 71. In a small Klönschnack he noticed how fast I'm walking and even with the heavy backpack. Since I have not yet realized this time that I am in Temple No. 73, I wanted to climb the higher temple but first, I do not understand that I should be faster than the car on foot pilgrims. The man visited namely the order accordingly, Temple No. 72 first, and then came here. I must stay still at No. 72 and was therefore only apparently a head start. I admire the statues in the temple and when I look at a statue on a tall column, I can even the roof of the Buddhist Ceremony (interior Sanctuary to see). But the path on the mountain in the heat to erkraxeln yet, I can not manage with the best intentions. I am anticipating, will visit the lower Mandaraji and then looking at me Zentsuji City accommodation. When it comes time, nor were there Kōyamaji (No.74) and to visit Zentsuji (No. 75). When I leave the temple again, as yet so flushed a white wave of pilgrims up the hill. Help, I think, and seek protection in a side road that leads to a figure Kobo Daishi. With much "Konnichi wa" ("Good day") and "Gambatte" (Do your best, be brave! "), I still greet the stragglers of the tsunami, now the temple has been reached. I walk quickly down towards Mandaraji, there are only about 600 m.
Digression No. 72 Temple Mandaraji (曼荼罗 寺)
"The Mandala Temple" was originally Yosakaji and was founded in 596 as the ancestral temple Saeki clan, to which also belonged to Kobo Daishi. When the Daishi returned 807 from China, he designed the temple after the Chinese model of Chōryūji (Chin-Lung Shing-Si) around. He carving as the main deity is a statue of Dainichi Nyorai and the two mandalas "Taizōkai" donated (Mandala of the womb) and "Kongokai" (Mandala of the Diamond Empire) which he from China had brought, the temple, which he called Mandaraji now. Of interest to the 377 plaques on the ceiling of the Main Hall (Hondo) are. The umbrella-shaped pine / pine (Kasamatsu), also called "ageless pine (matsu forōno) called the Kobo Daishi is said to have planted personally, unfortunately, gone in 2002 due to pine beetle infestation based. But it was from a branch a Kobo Daishi carved figure, which should remind as Kasamatsu Daishi (umbrella pine Daishi) in the tree. On the site is still under a cherry tree (sakura kasa kake) a (nap stone ") as" Hirun Ishi "means stone, the is said to have the famous poet Saygyō Hoshi (1118-1190) rested. Also, a small hut (mizukuku an), who lived in the poet is to be found on the temple grounds. The temple has
of Mandarajis at both guard statues and straw sandals. Fortunately, not so much activity. But when the gentlemen of Temple No. 73 again spill into the parking lot, it may already be hectic. I am particularly impressed by the censer before the Daishi Hall (daishidō) because it is lavishly decorated. I search the whole temple area to the angle-free Schirmpinie, later I learn from another temple leaders that the tree received in 2002 was. When I then view then the strange Schnitzform of Kobo Daishi figure and finally find the image of the received pine, I can then piece together the stories alone. Now quickly to No. 74, just 2 km away. I run a small creek along and can not believe my eyes. If the temples around here are in the industrial area, possibly even next to the sand pit or whatever that might be? And indeed, when I come closer but because of the temple, as if one had stolen somewhere in the mountains and stopped here briefly. In the beginning, I see no goals, only two pillars, facing a field made its new building, light wood. However, when I explore the temple grounds, I meet still on older buildings and a Shinto shrine.
Digression No. 74 Temple Kōyamaji (甲 山寺)
"The Temple of Helm Hill" in the translation sounds a bit bumpy, but it is the head protection (English hemet amor /) of Bishamonten, one of the seven lucky gods, meant , from which the mountain takes its name. After Kobo Daishi 821 located in Manno near water reservoir at the behest of Emperor Saga (786-842, 52nd emperor) has remodeled since it broke again and came to the floods, he founded this temple in gratitude for the successful completion. The Legend by a wise old man came out of a cave and promised the Daishi positive power and protection for the temple. Kobo Daishi once broke a piece of the rock and created the image of Bishamonten, which is verwart in the cave. The temple, he is using the money have established that he had received for the reconstruction of the water reservoir (manno ike). Before the conversion of the reservoir, which is still the largest in Japan, he held a ritual Goma (fire ritual) and from the carved figure of Yakushi Nyorai. In gratitude and as accommodation for the statue, he founded the temple and made Koyamaji Yakushi main deity (Gohonzon). Noteworthy here are also the Koyasu Kannon Figure, which stands for the blessing of children, the Cave of the Main Hall (Hondo) and the main hall itself, with its painted ceilings tablets. There is a large water trough made of stone. The Manno-ike reservoir situated a few kilometers from the temple, where Kobo Daishi figure commemorates his designer.
The tablet in the ceiling above Hondo (main hall) I can see me but not anymore, it has just one bunch of pilgrims gathered in front to recite the Heart Sutra. But the water trough and the cave, which was extended outside and the inside nicely, I'll take a look. The approximately 1.5 km to the Zentsuji I create and then also meet shortly before 17.00 clock in the temple one.
Digression No. 75 Zentsuji Temple (善 通 寺)
"The Temple of the right way" is the birthplace of Kobo Daishi and the first Shingon temples in Japan. The name comes from the father of the Daishi, which can both "Yoshimichi" and can "Zentsū" read. As head of the clan Saeki he has both land and trees for the temple complex founded. According to legend, the temple was built on the sand of the eight holy places of India, had received the Kobo Daishi by his Chinese teacher Hui Kuo. The construction period was 6 years, and Kobo Daishi statue of Yakushi Nyorai, highest Buddha in Shingon Buddhism, he has carved and consecrated the temple. The high priest is traditionally determined by the emperor himself. The one next to the Zentsuji Kongobuji, headquarters of the Shingon school and Mausoleum of the Koyasan Daishi on, and the Toji temple in Kyoto, first response and ordination site of Daishis, the three most important temple of the Shingon in Japan. The temple is divided into an eastern and a western part, the eastern part of the golden Hondo (main hall, and Kondo, "Golden Hall"), the pagoda, which has three goals and Jōgyō Hall. The first pagoda dates from the year 813, the current, fourth, reconstruction dates from 1884. The greater Western part contains the Niōmon (Wächtertor) Chokushi Gate, Hiei Hall, Jizo Hall, Goma Hall, Shorei hall, treasure hall with the Patriarch staff of the Shingon, a new meditation hall, a stupa (reliquary towers) and the "Iroha" building. In a building called Tanjo-in there is the Meguri Kaidan (ghost pilgrimage "), a type of unlit tunnel where one in 88 Buddha statues along the walk. They say that bad people get stuck in this tunnel. A rectangular plate in the tunnel marks the birthplace of Mao ("true fish"), as the boy's name is Daishis. However, there are also some controversy, since menstruating or giving birth Women were denied access to temples at that time. Since they were ritually unreich, probably no one would build a temple in such a place. So it is questionable whether this place here called Byōbugara, here or in the vicinity of a booth, where now a Bangai temple stands, is related to. It is estimated that Yoshimichi Saeki and his wife Tamayori Gozen-small Mao might have reared by the sea. A former house, now a temple and Miedo is called, was once the home of Kōbō Daishis mother. But Zentsuji temple you can still see the place where the young Mao buried his dog or has carved his first sculpture.
Now I'm flat! The street which here departs from the Temple Five Zentsuji Ryokan, in which pilgrims are welcome. I try my luck in the first, Yamamoto Ryokan, and promptly get a room. The landlady let me a tatami room with private bathroom. While it is all a bit old and siffig, but I have a roof over their head and as I now do not begrudge a decent dinner, I have to make it no head. I still lurk on the rainy day that the weather has announced two days ago, but maybe the rain has cleared. I take a hot bath, that must have today, even if I here no O-furo (Japanese shared) did. There is a grand dinner with fire pot (Udon) and scallops. As I document just dinner with the camera, I asked a Japanese man in the dining room, whether to make a picture of me. No thanks, I reply, I see at present so worn out and exhausted from that which would be not a pretty picture. But show me the landlady, who speaks very good English, a new subject. For this purpose, she waves me into the street and presented me the illuminated pagoda Zenzūji the adjacent temple. This is the third largest pagoda in Japan, she added. When I come to my room after dinner is even made my futon. Embarrassingly, I think I did not expect this "service", I had some things my not especially tidy.
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