The 44th Day in Japan At 6:30 clock is announced departure for me because the bus leaves at 7.05 clock. I will go and take a bus to Kansai Airport, the flight to switch to collect information. Although I had an e-mail sent to the airline, but has received no response. Where's the next time I find an opportunity to find an Internet connection is questionable. Of course there are in the Kansai Airport in the basement of a number of Internet terminals from which you can surf for 100 yen, about 10 minutes on the Internet, but when I arrived, it is still early to be morning in Japan (accordingly, it is in Europe or in the middle the Night). Here in Tokushima I buy a ticket for the bus first, get my luggage tickets handed out by the driver, who immediately packed my backpack in the luggage compartment. When I made myself but the very front at the entrance placement, as I had done on the outward journey to Hajo, I will point out that I have a ticket 2nd Class and the seats have bought it from the 3rd Row. I see it, although no great difference to the outward journey, both times I paid 4,000 yen, but I add the instructions. As the bus from the bus station before leaving Tokushima Central Station, I say goodbye inside of Shikoku. "Sayonara Shikoku - soon!"
Now back on the Naruto Expressway, which connects Naruto Kaikyo Bridge, the Sikoku with Awaji Island, and the Akashi Kaikyo Bridge, which represents the connection to the mainland, and here we are again through the city of Kobe in Osaka. When I get out in Kansai, I check first if the airline is busy switch. But nil - there currently is no flight of this airline, is it a switch is opened or no staff, I could have asked, are present. I go to the basement to get me to the tourist information guide to Koyasan. Above all, I need info as I most easily get there. Unfortunately, the nice Japanese woman who helped me and Hajo 6 weeks was not there, but also so I get a lot of useful information. I get a card that says "Map of Kansai Airport, a card that I recommend everyone to get to because it has not just a map of the catchment area of Kansai, but the grid on the JR (Japan Railways) - and private railways in the area. I can Kansai with the private Nankai Railway line to Kishinosato Tamade drive, change, and then go directly to a further Nakai line to Koyasan. Since I buy a combination ticket, which includes the cable car to Koyasan Station from the mountain with one, I should be as relatively safe reach my goal. That sounds good at first, but since there many different speeds Trains are who do not anywhere or not pass through the route, is it more complicated than thought. It is this distinction not only in Express and Local (normal speed), but there is rapid Limited Express, Ltd.. Southern Express, Ltd.. Express, Express Airport, Sub Express, Semi Express, and of course the train (local), stops at every stop really. If you sit on the wrong train and is surprised that all the people leave at once, the train, which is probably the terminal. Care must always sure how far (bound for XY "), the train, then from there take a connecting train.
Unfortunately I have bad luck, so that I am from 11.00 bis 14.00 clock on such a small Must sit around the train station. The sun is shining, but I'm cold. Perhaps because we are in the mountains. I prefer to warm up to me a can of Nescafe from a vending machine, although I really detest both the finished canned coffee and tea. But if one is cold, one uses any source of heat. The coffee is even offered in three different flavors. The cans are marked "France", "Italy" and "Tanzania" in romaji (Latin letters) and I guess that there might be meant by coffee, espresso coffee and normal. I am quite glad that it's Nescafe and not overly sweet, these, with milk contaminated caffeine bombs which "Morning Shot" or something similar calls. But finally it goes on.
The train dragged himself up the hill, not too far it may be more, because the train has to do all right, get up here. Soon I will switch to the cyclone track ("Cable car") must, as it is simply too steep tunnel, despite a Normalzug. When I arrived in Gokarukobashi then, I heave myself and my luggage to said cable railway, which has only a few meters further their output Punk. We are only a few people in the wagon, which has no response, but a staircase inside, because it is so steep here. I find it immediately on a woman with a lime green jacket, shot some photos here. Foreigners come here quickly and I discovered it. When they get moving again to her husband, I'll start a conversation. There are French people who want to leave Japan in the course of their visit to Koyasan. In Kyoto, Osaka and Nara, they have been already, now they want to visit the famous Koyasan. I tell you about my tour of Shikoku and we talk almost the whole journey only with Japan. There are two trains, each up and go. In a small area of the route is double track, here to meet the trains, because the rest is just one track. I wonder just how popular here as a wanderer or pilgrim to the mountain comes as the track runs parallel to a temporary dirt road. But finally we arrive at the mountain station and I'm back a little shocked how much activity is at a time.
I thought I was on target, but here you have yet to buses, change the one to bring in the actual city and the temple, of which there are over 100 here. Since you do not run the first part to the entrance, may be it as a precaution so that no one here under the wheels, or as a source of revenue for the temple town, I buy at the box office first day Pass. Luckily I get a map right here and a brochure handed out in English. A little confused, because I still could not decide, I board the first available bus to first get into the city. My idea of a small village, very traditional and simple, but with many magnificent temples here is on Koyasan, I have buried. I have the same feeling that I was behind at the first visit to Kyoto, I had imagined as a peaceful town with beautiful small temples. It presented itself to me but as a big city like Tokyo, which sell the temple as tourist attractions and had connected with a well-developed transport system. What can I say such a thing is called a culture shock! I had previously intended to provide better, but now I let myself go and just look where I land.
I get the "cemetery" or as a Buddhist Ceremony ("inner sanctum") from designated area, as these are the last bus stop ("Okunion mae") is. From here I can roll up the temple town from behind, but first I'll go get my stamps for my pilgrim point (nokyochō). I'm already "by the wind" and afraid to forget otherwise. Here on the pilgrim's office are little groups of young people. A young Japanese is just busy hand to stamp the white pilgrims West, employing the priest, meanwhile, with the other pilgrims. It lasts until I'm at the range, but in the end and I finally got it yet my fate, my pilgrim book, respectively, met. The gentlemen here, especially the elderly something to him I'd like to describe as "paint monkey", here the whole pack has young men. I balk at the nape hair, so I would imagine a yakusa (Japanese Mafia). Giving the nice and helpful uncle next door, if you are taking on his pleas, a donation for the needy crook shank of your neighborhood, you break your fingers. I too would like to know what he wears under his clothes, as it almost invariably yakusa are those who here in Japan tattoos. Therefore, tattoos in Japan still frowned upon and this "company" forbidden to enter public bath houses. But I will not pull down more me. Since it is not only very cold up here, but has also started to rain yet, I will not stay long. I wander through the "graveyard", it should be here more than 2,000 grave stones. Of emperors and daimyo (local prince) to seal up the common man, is all represented, even company logos with memorial stones for deceased employees make up I can. Since the Daishi is the age of 62 years in the "happy hunting grounds" and received in eternal meditation (samadhi), since 21 March of the year 835 here laid to rest has found many supporters thought that the proximity of the Saints could bring them good karma (fate) for the next life. This kind of miraculous persistence, not really dead and enlightened, still alive and the final resolution (Nirvana) striving, not uncommon here in Japan. Even the Tendai sect founder Saicho ("Highest Clarity"), who had traveled with the Daishi to China, is said to linger for 822 in his temple on Mount Hiei Enrakuji (for Kyoto) in meditation. (Maybe someone with a report on the "marathon monk" as seen from Hiei just this in the tradition of Tendai Buddhism, see also http://www.3sat.de/dynamic/sitegen/bin/sitegen.php?query_string=Japan&days_published=365&scsrc=1 input "marathon monk"
I wander here about the cemetery, but the orientation is difficult since really no map listing all the buildings. So I compare my three choices to determine my position to even begin to can. As I pass a screaming-like building, it is the Eireiden, I thought that the Buddhist Ceremony ("inner sanctum"), the mausoleum would be the Daishis, but it looks more like a shrine. But I'm on the wrong track, the right, an approximately 2 km with ancient cedar-framed road would have to lead me directly to the Ichinobashi that Nakanobashi and Gobyōbashi called bridges to Daishi's mausoleum. The bridges separating the respective areas in the "kingdom of the dead", the "kingdom of purification" and the "realm of enlightenment." I feel transported back to Shikoku where I should work with any province or dojo (practice room) enlightenment (Nirvana) approach.
Now I run cross country but a bit and admire the many statues, grave stones and memorial plants. I see a statue of a dog, a small samurai in manga style. (Manga called Japanese comics, while the anime cartoon and animation films will be used.) monument at Nissan I can see two workers and in between, these huge trees, which are to be the oldest 900 years old. From the brochure I know that for safety always trees must be felled, they were dead or damaged by a typhoon. This happens only in an emergency and reciting sutras (prayer formula). There are so many interesting details, I can not even get enough. A book-read man with a scarf and some relief, in which I can make European clothes and faces, and the "mountains" of small stones and Jizo figures it did to me. Later I learn that Jizo "stratifications" have been erected for the dead who had no relatives, so that no one would have to the rites after death care.
I see a group of bronze figures, "Mizumuke Jizo" they are called here, and it will bring good karma (fate), sprinkle them with water, what to do with pilgrims present for a lot of momentum. After the last of the three bridges, it is unfortunately not permitted to take pictures or here durchzuschlendern with yukata (cotton kimono). A sign in English has all my energy out. In the Tama River probably a kind of spiritual purification timber is constructed, unfortunately this is my last photo, because you in the Buddhist Ceremony (inner sanctum) can not take pictures. In the next hall, there is neither a temple nor a mausoleum to be accepted by monks orders, which are related to rites for the dead and the wish-fulfillment. Left over, again out of the hall, you just go to a small hut, which is used as a "bone house". Here bones are kept of those who probably had in the cemetery before the complex is no room nor the wherewithal to find here permanently and definitively the final resting place. One can here on Koyasan a "luck" purchase, for example by you make a copy of Sutra and then charge for a period of time stored here. Anyone who imagines that things would be kept here forever, as is usual for Sutrenspeicher on Shikoku in earlier centuries, will be disappointed, because then the mountain would be bursting at the seams, were as much storage space is not at all. But as a temporary interim solution.
Now I am finally in front of the mausoleum of the Daishi, but can hardly see what, since there is no temple hall, but only a fence, before it burns incense and makes his prayers. Somewhere back there, hidden behind a small door in the open, the Daishi is in his Mausoleum in eternal meditation between this world and the next float. And I still hold him in my hand, my Daishi or walking stick that has brought me no major problems on the island of Shikoku. "Arigato gozaimasu" (Thank you), I think, and want to make their way into the city. I've seen in a small plan, that there is even a youth hostel. Maybe I should come there to recover from my first culture shock. There are certainly seeing more and if I'm already here, then it should not miss me to inform me first thoroughly.
time I walk right past the building and come across a hall TOTODO ("Later hall") is called and burn in an unbroken sequence, since the occurrence of the Daishis in its present state, the donated lanterns. The lanterns are from the most famous emperor Shirakawa (1053-1129, 72nd Tenno) and a poor woman named Oteru ( http://www.koyasan.or.jp/english/visitors/midokoro/torodo.html ).
I'm holding on here but not for long. It's cold, trickling from her, and I prefer it to seek my fortune in the hostel. Which is indeed almost at the end of the temple city, but since I visited the 2 km pine alley anyway, I wanted to walk along this path. When I meet again on the main road on which I with the bus came, then I am amazed but not bad, because here classified a temple to the next. Of course, I only see the temple entrances with gates, but everything is nicely decorated with pine branches, water containers and even Japan flags. There is a great pilgrim paraphernalia shop and small stalls where offerings of oranges and pine branches mentioned can buy. Fortunately, my fears confirmed not to be found here a city like Kyoto. Maybe a small town or around the present time, perhaps a village since the day tourists are already on the way home or have retired to the adjacent temple to Shokubō (temple accommodation).
When I was in the front room of the hostel ( http://www2.ocn.ne.jp/ ~ Koyasan / indexe.html ) kick, it's a wonderful old Japanese house, and I pray that it still tonight place for me there. The hostess speaks some English and so I can even rent a room for two nights here. Whether dormitory or single room does not matter because all nights cost the same amount. Dinner is available today, unfortunately, not for tomorrow but breakfast. As the matron leads me to my room, my eyes fall into the common room, which, according to the house, with a go-table (Japanese game with white and black pieces) and Shogi Board (Japanese Chess), a sitting area with back supports and is equipped for the tea ceremony utensils. There is also a television, a black piano and a computer corner, but that's part of the service. What amazes me, the only foreigner in the gray hair is on the computer. If I did not know better, I would consider him Hajo. But now would have to drive in Nara and Kyoto to mischief. But this cap and this size, this is actually Hajo who delves into his computer work, I was not well seen! Even as I speak to him, I hear from him only an absent "like looking out, I need something." Well, he is not the same to me run away and so I refer first to my room at the top of the roof.
Wonderful, a real bed, there is indeed a thick roof beam in a dangerous head height, but I have the room for the whole of me. The toilet is located just around the corner, down the bathroom next to the kitchen. I invite from my luggage and push again to Hajo. We welcome our first drink and a round of tea and I prefer a coffee. While we're telling us, our experiences, especially as we have mastered the tracks on Bangai No. 20, a young woman joins us. She is Swiss and Japan on their journey for a short visit ended up here on Koyasan as they visited a relative in Japan added. She still has no fixed plan where to go next point. Inspired by our experiences Shikoku we submit their proposal to do but the little round of Temple No. 1 to No. 17. Then you have a good insight into the daily pilgrimage and is also called for something sporty. It does not have to overdo it and how we do it all round. When we consider how we want to spend the early evening, we have to organize something for dinner, my phone number is the "cult-san" one of the Muryōkō that had given me the young man from Bangai No. 20. Without further ado, I press the number Hajo in the hand, said the pride on his return, that we can immediately come in Muryōkōin temple. We know the Swiss priest Kurt Genso from the press, as it recently gave reports on the Swiss-born, who came here several years ago to Shingon priest. He lives in Muryōkōin, a temple in which several foreign monks and nuns are ordained.
The Muryōkōin ( http://www.muryokoin.org/ ) here is just around the corner. We quickly aufgerappelt us and allowed rapid step the way to the gate behind us. Hajo asks one monk who comes to meet him in the courtyard, according to Kurt Genso. A few moments later, the Swiss will also have to give us to guide them through the maze of stairs and corridors to his little chamber, where he lives with his Japanese wife. He had just returned from Thailand where he carries out a project that will enable the Thai monks to study. Unfortunately, it is still the case that it is in Thailand, the monks allowed to reside in the vicinity of the fair sex. In a study in which we now "pushes school," the times together, it can not be fully excluded, so that the monks to give up either the study or the monk status must. Kurt floats, not only because of this gender problem, a university for monks. He itself supports some guys who he had met in the Thai temple with money and a fatherly leader. The development of a biology department at a school he has just been completed and a project to build a library, has just been dumped again because it seemed more appropriate for the money to buy computers, allow you an access to current information. Then there was the problem with the computer operation. But fortunately, Kurt has found a teacher willing to learn the computer could give lessons. It seems to me, he follows the old saying - "Where there's a will there's a way" and so we get an impression with his tales of his projects. By himself, we learn only that he is from Switzerland, and studied art in long, I think Venice, lived, where he met his Japanese wife. Tamara, our guide from Switzerland know Kurt from newspaper reports and reports that come out of his home country. We are sitting here with a cup of tea on the floor of his monk's cell at a small table, the walls are served with bookshelves. Quite different than I had imagined. Somehow, plain and spartan to me so I had presented a monk room. But for its many projects, he serves as interpreter and Koyasan, although it sounds not like a kind of diplomat Koyasan, acts of foreign Tourists and tourist guides and photo, book and television projects elsewhere on the run. A busy man who has yet to a wife, and his service as a priest in the temple must not neglect. He tells us that soon will a production team from ZDF visit him, as it is about the pilgrimage of Shikoku. Although he is a Shingon Buddhist pilgrimage never, but we can tell him all the more stories like this. It ends with the fact that we share as common in Japan, business cards and get an invitation to the morning meditation, to be held at 6:00 clock.
Since we had no dinner, says Kurt-san us the way to a small pub come into the temple members often, because there are many good, cheap food. Hajo must leave us now that he has checked so punctual that he could still grab dinner in the hostel. So I make my then been with Tamara to visit the pub, its menu also Kurt-san is translated into English. I eat a curry ramen for 600 yen. That is a mix of ramen, thin Chinese noodles with soup and a curry, which often can you serve as a rice dish. The pub is small and we feed at the counter. On the toilet I look for the hand basin in vain, I find that in the guest room on the wall. As we have served our great dishes, I still think about whether I can dare to give me the huge surpluses, as in Japan quite common to put on the lips to it auszuschlürfen then noisily. But with a spirited "supuno arimasuka" (Is there spoon?) We get finally has passed spoon. When we come tonight in the hostel, I rush out of sheer information input of the head. What I have now seen it all interesting and experienced. But the conversation with Kurt-san took several hours. I fall into bed now dead tired. I have not even managed to take a hot bath in Ofuro (Japanese bath). Tomorrow I will explore the Koyasan Hajo and I let him show the temple, in which I have not been.
Pilgrimages http://www.sekaiisan-wakayama.jp/english/sisan_index.htm
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