the 43rd Day in Japan Although I am already at 6.00 clock on, but there is breakfast only from 7:00 clock, I grab my backpack and go to the Internet to even write a few e-mails and I pick out details on Koyasan. At long last another breakfast so after my own heart: Minichroissants, Brioschbrötchen and coffee fill! I had missed so right! A real Western breakfast, if one disregards the fact that the diameter of the rolls made as similar is like the spoon for the coffee, more as a knife blade and I tear open the rolls rather than cut. The breakfast eggs are hard, but cold, but I refresh myself on coffee, which comes here fresh from the coffee machine. I run after I checked out the Awa Access, 1 in the direction of Temple No. It's pretty difficult to find a way, because now all the signs are in the wrong direction. While one could easily be based on the way out, hanging signs a now mostly in the back and you have to be oriented in the opposite direction. The stone sign (hyoseki) are easier to find, as they are set up so that it can be seen easily from both directions. This is probably one reason why a pilgrimage tour in an opposite direction (Gyaku uchi) and four tours will be counted in the right direction (jun uchi). So you can run the tour are once (in the opposite direction), but already at the next tour in the right direction with green labels (osamefuda) distributed in the temples. There is also such a hierarchy in the number of completed pilgrimages. How could I learn in the pilgrim museum tours are on the No. 1 to No. 4 with white slip (osamefuda) to use are from 5 rounds of green, red for 8 rounds. Followed by 24 rounds from silver, gold and 55-88 of 100 laps on the pilgrimage (on foot or motorized) should the Pilgerwütige then use plastic cards that are labeled "brocade".
But now I want to first finish my first round and still make up the missing visit Bangai Temple No. 1. I pass a sign that says "Gosho kindergarten. To this end I have to say that the German word has been adopted in the English language with the German spelling. When I meet pilgrims, I greet them with a hearty "Gambatte kudasai" (Do your best - only courage). But I see again and again pilgrims who see me from a distance and then some Japanese call as if I would run in the wrong direction. With a Japanese "Owarimashita" ("I've finished"), I will enlighten them on and then try unswervingly to find my way back. On the sidewalk I find a folding comb. Once again provided me my Meiser, Kobo Daishi, with all the necessities. My own comb had lost a few days ago so many tines that I've thrown it away. But, as with the miniature sandals for good luck, the Daishi meet modest requirements (;-) grins!).
case of a short visit to the Temple No. 7 (Juurakuji), then I am still amazed at what has stuck by the impressions of the 88 temples an extent. At first I felt like I was ihn das erste Mal in meinem Leben besuchen. Nun muss ich dazu sagen, dass so ein paar grüne Bäume einen Tempel doch schon sehr verändern können. Ich hatte vor knapp 6 Wochen hier nur kahle oder spärlich blühende Pflaumen- und Kirschbäume zu sehen bekommen. Während die zart rosa Kirschblüte einem Tempel noch so eine edle Note verleiht, zieht das grüne Laub ihn wieder in die Gefilde der Normalität. Ja ich möchte sagen in die Art Ländlichkeit, die ich auf Shikoku kennengelernt habe. Derb, aber mit Herz, freundlich, aber mit respektvollem Abstand. Oh, wie werde ich das vermissen! Aber ich wundere mich, dass man dann doch so ein paar Gedächtnisblitze hat. Man erkennt zwar nicht mehr die Einzelheiten der Lokalitäten, But can remember certain situations where you hit pilgrims for accommodation or travel or something else had asked with links, as it only looked at or photographed. Here in the pilgrim's office to buy some little things that I had pinched on the Hintour for weight restriction. I buy a white bag (zudabukuro), a bell (jirei) and a Wagesa, a kind of collar that is reminiscent of a monk's robe (kesa). I will complete my pilgrimage equipment and can it be possible from the next post office to send home.
provides further my plan for today, my luggage, if possible to deposit at Temple No. 6 (Anrakuji), then the Way under the Tokushima Expressway take (highway) for Bangai Temple No. 1. When we received the Temple No. 4 (Dainichiji) have visited some time ago, we were told that the route from there to Bangai not be passable. I choose the other route, starting from Temple No. 6, and I hope that I manage the transition from English to Japanese map. Fortunately, the Bangai temple is not so far away, so that allows me to deposit my heavy luggage in the temple. If I remember correctly, so you can even sleep in the bell tower for free. If I was so late, I would have ever safe for the night. There is also the car park of the temple nor a very comfortable cabin with toilet pilgrims.
So I'm on my way, but what the map looks simple, but it is in kind of complicated. Between all the houses and fields, it is not easy to find the pilgrim path and orientation There is also little evidence. Just do not choose the wrong car railway crossing, otherwise I'll be on the wrong path, then I can not correct anymore. I notice the number 42, which is mounted on a sign at a crossing below. I will try to run the same way back as we went, I should probably keep arriving back in the Temple No 6. But it is difficult to interpret the sparse Wegbeschilderung because not all signs necessarily with a red arrow on the Taisanji (Bangai temple No. 1) indicate. The terrain is steep and difficult, and I'm not sure if I've chosen the right path. But I believe that there is a steep road car and an even steeper path of pilgrims. But the higher I go up the mountain, the better the view over the plains of Awa City or Town Kamiita. On a side hill I can make a house, whether it is a shrine or a temple, I can not see, unfortunately. Radio towers that look like pagodas deceive me, but I have during my pilgrimage to a lot of other "structures" seen, which have then been found as yet modern design pagodas. It is warm and the sun burns. The cold of the last day, had mentioned, but then her mind, but now I stew in own juice. When I made the way to the temple almost, a car stops next to me. All the time I had seen neither a pilgrim a car up here, and now consists of drivers eager to get the last piece to take up. But the engine of the car has bad problems here, get up the steep hill, or is it just the fast driving, the engine and brakes to bring here moaning. On the site I dismiss my Japanese car driver, he does not, however, when he was a pilgrim. Well - hopefully not only because of me hochgebraust the mountain, I was somewhere seen running between the houses and then, so I do not get lost, retraced.
digression Bangai Temple No. 1 Taisanji (大 山寺)
"The great temple mountain" in Japanese is due to the reading of the kanji (symbol characters), for each character was originally a Chinese (or Sino-Japanese) and Japanese reading provides both "Taisanji" and Oyamaji be "read. On the importance of the kanji does not change. The temple was founded about 1470 years ago, before the time Kōbō Daishis, and was an important temple of Shugendō (Bergasketentum). When the Daishi came here, had hit the temple, and first had to be rebuilt. The Temple Senju Kannon is dedicated. One legend has it that Kobo Daishi they have been given by his Chinese teacher Huikuo as he studied Buddhism in China. After he was back in Japan, he has donated to the temple the statue, but it is also a statue of Fudo Myoo in Hondo (main hall). Another statue Namikiri Fudo (Fudo waves smoothing ") is in the shrine on the mountain top. The temple is also a "wish granting temple known as Minamoto Yoshitsune here is said to have prayed for victory, before he rode to fight in Yashima, where he know, as we now the fight against the Taira clan (Heike) won. His horse (uma Japanese) to have been buried near the Pagoda of Taisanji. But the temple is famous all over the prefecture as a "marriage temple". Because the syllables' s go "in Japanese, both" five yen "and means" good marriage ", you throw is 5 yen pieces in the donation box. You should then be able to celebrate a beautiful wedding and when you're not married yet, find the right partner. There is another legend that is said to have occurred about 400 years ago when a local warlord prayed for 21 days for power. On his way home he met an Monsterkuh that he felled with one blow. But when they wanted to inspect the beast, they found only a Jizo statue, which was split into two halves. Now it was believed that the deity Kannon had turned into the monster to "demon" the warlord's power strieren. In memory of the temple is a nine stone pagoda, which is said to have worn the warlord of thanks from the top of the mountain to the temple.
You can tell immediately that this is no ordinary temple, but a, how shall I say, alternative Shugendō temple. The many special features, the European style gabled house, the white statue with the block and the many colorful pictures speak for themselves. I explore the temple grounds, the connecting corridor between Daishidō (Dasihi Hall) and Hondo (main hall) with the many votive tablets (ema) and the oversized wood chain has it done to me. As I will sit down for a small little break, a buzzing penetrates to my ear. I keep hearing it and in my mind shapes itself out of the bleeping sketch of a kitten. I am quite surprised but then, that my kitten then, has feathers and beak wide open so very not right for the small body. A sparrow sits in the sand here on Earth and perhaps calls for his mother. While he has been flight feathers, but makes no move. With the soft Puschelfedern around the neck retracted her looks more like a fur ball fiepende. Well, let's hope that there is no temple cat that appreciates easy prey.
After I pursued my pilgrimage and my obligations pilgrims have had complete book, I enter a gay heart of the retreat. But all I'm so happy then but not because the car is still on the parking lot. When I drive up the weathered entrance was noticed, which I would definitely visit yet. So I walk down the valley again. The goal is really very old and weathered. When I visit it even comes with a blue tarp as a roof replacement, probably to minimize further damage. The road is downhill course, the more easily as it goes down and you do not have too many worries about losing his way. In a curve, in which I can see over the trees away, I enjoy the view from up here. It is a little hazy, but I still have a phenomenal vision. I am surprised again and again how it can be such a shallow places among so many mountains. Same way as if a giant hand, the planes knocked flat. When I was still in the corner, I hear a car coming from behind in rushing. Of course my helpful driver who has already brought me the piece up to the temple. With the words "aruki Henro desu," "I 'm running pilgrims, "I apologize with a smile and thank me with a bow for his helpfulness. The way back, I get lost in an orange grove, but then found more quickly than expected. I still watch a farmer and a farmer working in the field and how they are progressing fight through the muddy ground. This is such a real art to irrigate the rice fields everywhere must be enough water, but it must not stagnate.
here in the middle of nowhere I see a sign that the "Jingui fruit market" and refers to Participate waza-no-yakata, a kind of museum where the visitor traditional craft of Tokushima Prefecture can try. This is again typical Japanese, not just consume knowledge in museums, but something in the truest sense of the word make comprehensible. Paper thus scooping, dyeing and weaving technology available to do it. I went faster again in the temple No. 6 than expected, taking my backpack again and receive and make a break in said pilgrims cabin before the parking lot. I run the other way on road No 12 along if I had to follow the pilgrim trail, now I run in the opposite direction, I would quickly run into problems. Here on the main road I find a variety of machines, one for pre-noodle soup ("Cup Noodle"), for sweets, Drinks and even one for ice cream. I authorize a strawberry ice cream, because unfortunately was my favorite variety "matcha" sold out. Macha or "Green Tea" is my favorite because of the bitter taste of green tea blends so beautifully with the sweetness of vanilla ice cream. I also had quite the meantime, a chocolate coated vanilla ice cream tasted as ice confection, but Grünteeeis with waffle or plain as a small ice cream scoops are unbeatable for me.
I pass Temple No. 2, which is located right here in the curve and end up back in Temple No 1, Ryōzenji. I had thought even at the height of the junction to the German House, if I Patrik another visit pay, it should because it is already 16.15 clock, however, and is the opening time to 16:00 clock, but then I decided to continue to hike. Now I'm back at the beginning, there where I'm started, full of tension, full of energy and full of uncertainty about what will take the next few weeks probably. I have to slip away a little tear when I recite my Heart Sutra, but I've really made it! From the beginning, especially sports has become a spiritual challenge. We've come full circle! I get another entry in my book Pilgrims (nokyochō) and buy some name cards (osamefuda), cotton cloth (Tenugui), incense and candles. Together with the other pilgrims utensils that I need not to visit the Koyasan, I send them to Germany. Shortly before the service end, I can still rush to the post office by Bando and miracle of miracles - there is no problem with the address! The "Tempelbus" I am going to clock 17.22 in the direction of Tokushima and I swear that this is not intended my last pilgrimage tour has been. From my seat I observe how the sun sets. I hope now that I again find this Business Sakura Hotel, where I was staying with Hajo on the way out. But everything runs like clockwork. I check in BR Sakura and realize surprising that in the guestbook mainly foreigners have mentioned. Typical foreigners descending, I think to myself when I read the crowd and especially the size of the shoes in the entrance notice. Japanese, they would all have been neatly lined up, but for foreigners, they fly through each other all. I buy something for dinner from the Lawson combining (24-h market) at the central station Tokushima and ask when the bus leaves tomorrow for Kansai airport. In my room I find on my return a banana and a piece of cake and tea. The rite place for me, because you can check-in ever put in a small Teepäuschen before then acts together again to have to run errands or taking a hot bath in Ofuro.
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