The 27th Day in Japan I am today at 5:30 on, I would like to be a tourist and would have remained out of life, as the French, who yesterday made Rabatz to 23:30 clock and woke me up at 3:00 clock and again from sleep. But I'm pilgrims and must continue I can not yet predict how fast I can run through the pilgrimage tour. But so far I do not think I always plan for the next day. So I'm going to create well-Temple No. 52 and No. 53 and then on the 35 km to the temple No. 54 I have to look for a hotel. I check into the hostel and equipped Isaniwa from the shrine visit. Since it right here on the hill on the pilgrimage route, is my journey begins today in a shrine. Past the tennis courts, around the time of play but which actually have tennis, it is up to the shrine are only a stone's throw away.
digression Isaniwa shrine (info and pictures at: http://isaniwa.ddo.jp/top.htm )
Legend of Isaniwa shrine was established there, where the Emperor Chuai (192-200, 14th emperor) and his Empress Jingu had visited the Dogo hot springs. Them the shrine is dedicated. It was the first shrine to the Dogo Park Hill and is already mentioned in the chronicle of Engi-shiki (967). In the 14th Century it was the influential Kono-shi clan moved to its present location. The feudal Yoshiaki Kato dedicated it as one of the 8 shrines protection from Matsuyama to the fortunes of war. During the Edo period in 1662 was asked Sadanaga Matsudaira, fifth lord of Matsuyama, in a competition in archery in Edo (now Tokyo) to participate. He asked here at the Shrine to successful outcome and promised to renovate the shrine. In a dream before the competition was published in the deity Hachiman and promised him the victory if he would comply with his instructions. Matsudaira had a lot to lose, because he was an excellent archer. When he was now their turn to shoot him a golden dove, appeared to he shot. With luck, he hit the exact center of the target, and he wins the archery. Then he built, according to his promise, from the shrine, according to the Hachiman Shrine in Kyoto as a model to full glory. The renovation works started in June of 1664 and were completed only in May 1667th Almost 70,000 workers, 697 of them carpenters, were involved. The shrine was created exactly according to his model, the Iwashimizu Hachiman Shrine in Kyoto. Besides this, he belongs to the Usa Hachiman Shrine (Oita Prefecture) to the three main shrines of Hachiman Zukuri style in Japan. Since 1967, the Isaniwa shrine belongs to the "Important Cultural Property."
The road from the shrine of a long stairway in the city. At the foot of the stairs I come men in yukata (cotton kimono) counter that took the most their morning in the Dogo Onsen? In all cases, the trail lead me past the onsen, but I can not find the way, since this is only through a shopping arcade. I walk back and forth, look out for a pilgrimage, the I could follow, but in the end finds a pilgrim me and shows me where it goes out here. Actually I wanted to take the path on the lake Yoshifujiike over, but my Japanese colleague pilgrims running along the street 437. Nuance Dragon Naturally, I also through photographing lost him from view, but I'm lucky, because today many pilgrims seem to be on the road, so I get even further away hints about where it's working this way. have to rush and I did not want me, nothing would be worse if I had finished the tour successful, but could not remember anything more, or would have shot only fuzzy photos. And I have a feeling that so many interesting things missed have to. Simply because the card is often misunderstood, so I run the "Russian Cemetery" by simple, although it is located on the trail. But I do not find the Gokoku Shrine, the Raigo-ji Temple, the Temple and the Rengeji Aosa Sanko Shrine or is it the Moroyamadumi shrine? Here I also vertüddelt something because both run in a different direction and in the pilgrimage. When I follow a pilgrimage towards the railroad crossing, the barriers have just been closed, I see smoke rising from two furnaces. This is a full-smokes happen again and again. Since the garbage disposal in Japan is expensive, people burn their garbage every day in many places. About the stinking smoke no one gets upset, and that someone in the terror of the Japanese from fire (most houses are made of wood!) could call the fire department, they would probably not understand it.
I run now with three Japanese pilgrims, a woman and two men, but I think as a shrine in an outhouse, I take a break. Although I can still see in the distance, but is now back across the trail past through the vegetation and a pond. Here I have to really look hard for directions and ask the locals who have gescharrt a motorized fishmonger. Finally, I find the way and a simple roof over the street, a kind of symbolic gate shows me that I'm on the right track. When I then passing the real goal, I praise my established by the city of Matsuyama bilingual information boards that give me this information about the Niōmon, the gate to the house of the Deva kings of the temple Taizanji. These signs usually contain information about the name, age, style, and founder and "relocation" of the particular attraction.
digression Temple No. 52 Taizanji (太 山寺)
The foundation of the temple of the great hill "comes from a legend that should have happened in 586, when the wealthy businessman Kogoro Mano on its way to Osaka from Kannon has been saved from shipwreck. In desperation he prayed to Kannon Sutra and around the mountain Kyo-ga Mori near Takahama (Ehime) published a five-colored cloud. Immediately calmed the raging sea, and he was able to do with his ship at the dock. As had climbed the mountain, he found a Jūichimen Kanzeon Bosatsu statue (Elfgesichtige Kannon), for which he once built a hut. He had decided to build here a hall and returned a short time later with artisans in Oita. They say the construction of the hall, without a single nail and without intermediate supports, be done in one night. In memory of these legends, every year on 17 March, a temple festival in honor Manos held. The actual temple foundation was 668-749, as Gogi (668-749) stayed here and a Kannon statue carved. Kobo Daishi is also here, some have spent time in which he called the "Gomaku" worship held, which is in praying for world peace and the fulfillment of wishes. The requests are placed on wooden sticks, which are then burned. In 1062 the temple was moved to its present location and in the 12th Century expanded to 66 buildings of the temple. 1305 several buildings were restored, the Main Hall (Hondo) dates from this time and is now regarded as "national treasure". On the temple grounds, there are Shotoku Taishi a hall, the princes of the same name is dedicated to the Temple in the 6th Century is said to have visited. He is popular with students because you can pray here for the successful completion of entrance examinations for colleges and universities. A Hyakudo Ishi, a "100 times Stone", is also here, where pilgrims take a piece of bamboo and travels hundreds of times from the Hondo (main hall) to the Daishi-do (Dahishi-hall) prayerful manner. Interesting also are the 6 other Kannon statues, which were donated by six different emperors. In the pilgrim book of Bishop Miyata stated that here on pilgrimage trail behind the Niōmon Mrs. Kamie Taenaka in April of the year died 1974th She came from Koyasan Betsuin Temple Los Angeles, about the community, I already reported to have Temple No. 34 and was appointed to the Bishop Miyata 1993rd May the soul of the pilgrim, rest in peace, or as we would express as a pilgrim: "Namu Daishi Henjo Kongo"
In many temples there specific fertility rites, the history with the ease of birth and the spatula I have already reported, but in this temple needles play an important role: women who want no more children, needles left in the temple, which can be taken by women who want some. Especially effective for infertility will it be to sew the underwear with the needles from the temple. Other countries - as the Romans do!
Until the first goal of Taisanji it was such a plain right leg, but instead it goes to the door again as the real thing. The paved path leads steeply up the hill, I would have thought not, because I ran all the way from Matsuyama in the plane. But as mentioned, the temple usually slightly be increased so as to get as close to the coast, not by a tsunami (tidal wave caused by earthquakes) can be washed away or punish the dead, which are used in temple close to rest, not the living can .
From a wandering in front of me I get a couple Osettai (pilgrim gift) given an orange, which they bought recently on the way, on such a self-service stand. This will now not be my only Osettai and I was wondering if I could make a starved appearance. Actually I do not feel they have taken great, or the face became narrower. In the temple I find a queue in front of a bell tower. I can also visit later, when the collection has resolved, as there are here to marvel at many other things: the sound of stones, which I know from Temple No. 24, the Buddha statue, one has the lips red, as if one had to much lipstick, use the magnificent with gold-colored "garlands" adorned the sanctuary and the adjacent shrine of the Inari foxes are worth seeing. While I was an octagonal building, perhaps the Shotoku Taishi Hall, discover, I can not find Hyakudo Ishi ("100 times Stone"). I still admire the Buddha's footprints (bussoseki) and the peculiar style or paleness of the guard figures in a goal when I shall finish with the bell tower visit with his painting. Again there are small, painted ceiling slabs, but also a large picture of Enma, the judge of the underworld, as he judges the dead. To visit the pilgrim's office, I must again from here hiking down the mountain. Shortly before the building I met again a figure with "Easter Island Touch". But the figure more Chinese trains with her long beard and the headdress. After I went back to the main road, I have to follow the road 183 just 3 km to the Enmyōji.
Digression No. 53 Temple Enmyōji (円 明 寺)
"The Temple of the circular illumination" was originally Gyōgi (668-749), much more lying on the coast (Wake Nishiyama) was founded. He built a hall for the statue of Amida Nyorai, which he is alleged to have carved 668-749. The starting point may be a his temple, which is still referred to as "Enmyōji-Okunion" and only a few hundred meters away from the sea. Between 774 and 835 are held here to Kobo Daishi. But throughout its history, the temple consisted of at times up to 7 buildings, burned the temple again and again, leaving nothing but ruins. Between 1615 and 1623, the temple by Shigeshisa Suga, a member of the Wake family, moved to its present location and rebuilt. Its official name "Suga zan Shōchi-in Emmyōji" was the Temple of the Prince of Kakujin Omuro Ninaji temple in Kyoto, the branch it was, until he in the 19th century to the Shingon Buddhism Chizan-ha converted. But between 1868 and 1912, when by law the separation of Shinto and Buddhism came into force, the temple was closed. Of note is the Niōmon (main gate with guard figures) are the Hondo (Hauphalle), which dates from 1908 and a 4 m long, wooden dragon has, was carved by Hidari Jingoro (1596-1644?). His most famous work is probably the "sleeping cat" in the Toshogu Shrine in Nikko. In the nearby Hall Kannon (Kannon-do), there was a statue of Kannon, the head of the House of Kono was attending a memorial erected. However, it was damaged in 1600 during the war. There is another statue of Kannon, "Mariya Kannon ", and the persecution of Christians during the Tokugawa period (17th century) of secret Christians has been (" crypto-Christians "), worshiped, Christianity was banned from 1614 to 1873 in Japan. Mention is also Frederick Starr, a professor of anthropology at the University of Chicago, who is here in the year 1921, the pilgrimage route running. When he came to this temple, it was his main interest in name cards accordingly, the oldest, still made of copper Osam fuda shown, which dates back to 1650. Frederick Starr (1858-1933), also known as ofuda Hakase (Doctor of name cards ") is mentioned in almost every pilgrim guides and adjacent to the University Professor Oliver Statler (1915-2002), author of "Japanese Pilgrimage", one of the most famous foreign experts for the Pilgeroute has been. The temple leader calls for local specialties like Goshiki-somes, five-color pasta, Taruto cakes, one filled by the Portuguese from Nagasaki adapted bean-jelly-roll, and shoyu-mochi, refried beans Stamp free cake.
As I enter the temple, I welcomed a Japanese man with thinning hair, I've seen at Temple No. 51. He gives me a pilgrim gift (osettai) a bag of homemade treats. This is a bag that have distributed the ladies at the Temple No. 50. He asks me if we do not eat lunch together (lunch), but I have it set up only to eat breakfast and dinner, as I will otherwise slow down when I fully suggest to me during the day the abdomen. This excuse can I get rid of him then also, but I was almost to him outside a restaurant with my purchases from Lawson combining (24-hour store), located nearby, ran into his arms. I find remarkable about this temple, the three goals: During Goal No. 1 has no guardian figures, gate No. 2 has a pair and Goal No. 3 has even two pairs. And the roof turret or the final figures are worth seeing, so vivid and detailed, as can I do not look sick. This time it is the main hall, whose ceiling with many painted plaques adorned. Flowers are seen, but also geometric pattern or is it about Japanese coat of arms? As I come from the pilgrim's office, on a staircase hutscht by someone - that was not "Mr. Siam"? I caught up with the nice man with the crooked eyes again? After I increased my food at Lawson combine, I do not begrudge strawberry milk, chocolate Must village and a Grünteeeis (Macha), the confrontation sail around with my stamp acquaintance outside a restaurant and actually take back to "Mr. Siam," which with in the company of a master metal cup the backpack is. I agree with the other two and they run ahead and I followed because I can not ask whether you value my company. The trail here on the road No. 347 by the sea. If I were to hop over the railing, I would either land on the narrow beach or flopping into the water. We follow the pilgrim character, not only stone pillars and red arrows, no - from time to time, two black, crossed vajra position (stylized battle scepter) clarification on the course of the pilgrimage route. Fortunately, there is almost no wind, so I need not fear, my hat to run again must afterwards. While we are a strange building seen from a great distance, since the road here makes a great bow, I chat to a photographer who is waiting here before Awazaka tunnel, whether the Shinkansen; want to photograph (English Bullet Train t: New trunk line "). This is also such a typical Japanese hobby. Just like the "hunting" of luxury ships with the camera in the port of Hamburg, the amateur photographers here lay in wait to shoot the famous high-speed trains. In an increasing speed of Kodama (Echo) on the Hikari (light) to the Nozomi ("request"), the latter creates the 515 km from Tokyo to Osaka in 2 hours and 26 minutes with a top speed of 300 km / h. Then you have to have a good camera equipment when you "catch" the racer wants. But I have to hurry something, or I lose the connection. The temple-like building presents itself as "Daishido Kaisen Hokutso" is out and a restaurant. Now is also a Japanese couple joined us. We walk in single file along the road, even though our pace is anything but lame. Like the wild geese in flight to the South takes any time to the work pace at the top. Just do not lose touch, I think this is a pace that I can go along well. However, if you want to buy something or go to the toilet be used is not maintained and you have to watch that one finds the Anschuss. I would also need time on the "smallest," but I will refrain from doing, but, as I am currently in the thrill of speed there. Then we will fly to Iyo Hojo, where I leave my wingmen and Ryokan (Japanese inn) attention. Actually I going to stay at the hostel because it is only 14.30 clock but I continue. The sun stands and I see to walk on the right side of the road in the shade. I'm still a round of sun block 50 + + + after. I realize that I was my geese squadron cost but a lot of power, the sun and heat do the rest to me to cook soft. On Station Kikuma I decide after I have thoroughly studied the maps to take the train to the next available property. This business hotel in Imabari City Kurushima deinstallation is my goal, that would be on the next station. I have since I was traveling alone, the plan set to be allowed to use any means of transport in Japan and once before I sleep under the open sky, whenever you need a pilgrim refuge there is none, a means of transport to the nearest accommodation facility use. drive train is abgeharkt therefore, still remain bus, taxi, cable car, horse or other means of transport. Fortunately
is the word "Bujinesu Hoteru" (eng. business hotel) in Japanese syllabary great at the building, otherwise I would have found it not in this rural solitude almost. Here I also the first time are really the neck hairs on end, as I enter my room siffig Everything drops of stale cigarette smoke, the room is musty and insects on the walls. When I asked the pert hostess for breakfast or dinner, I reject. First, because of hygiene and secondly there are no other guest except me anyway. Since I use my own dear to food. preparing the "old girl" me the Ofuro (hot bath) before the shared bathroom. She slips in this pink rubber slippers so that her slippers not wet. Unfortunately, the water is too hot and also from the other tap is no colder water. This keeps the bath water wasted, but while I thoroughly shower. I need the air conditioner in my room exhibit again, as I prepared the stench of cigarette smoke headache. I air extensively and then I realized my next problem: I always sleep without drawn curtains, so I wake up at sunrise, I'll get that night hardly an eye. Directly outside my room, maybe 3-4 meters away, burning in an office of the adjacent building light. Those who work for even Saturdays until midnight - the Japanese!
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