Sunday, June 13, 2010

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Monday, 04/20/2009, Kagawa, Zentsuji City, Yamanoto Ryokan

The 36th there day in Japan
The breakfast today at 6:00 clock, because the hostess know that pilgrims always have to get out early. It is, as always, something thin, but this is the dinner was all the more richer. As I have beschmiedet other plans and had initially asked only for one night, I check with the hostess if I can not stay another night. Today I will visit the Bangai temple No. 17, which will cost round trip with me around 24 km. So I kill two birds with one stone, because then I can leave my luggage also. So I pay the 7725 yen for the first last night and even get a packet Handkerchiefs and two candy gift.
As I walk this morning through the almost deserted Zentsuji, I come across a few "walk the dog walkers with their dogs. It's pretty hard to find the way out because I my way to the train tracks along, this I have but first look, how do I get to the other side of the rails, as there is no easy crossing, but as a bridge to are several levels. After having a tunnel that goes down stairs down, I wandered through, I find myself on the right page. My first stop I make it in a Circul-K (24-hour store), which is just outside the city. Here I would also like a Japanese addressed, showing me on his cell phone his family photos, cherry blossom and the temple, which he attended from the 88 so far. He still digs out a ticket from the cable car at Temple No. 66 and I grin at him, because I have used.

I run now in the Japanese card, as the English-language maps again ends just outside the city limits. But the road runs straight to the train tracks along to Kotohira. Road signs I have repeatedly pointed to the famous shrine. In the Japanese card is even a map to find the cry of buildings while it finds in the English map is not mentioned. But fortunately my path leads me right through the city, I notice the great hotels, where visitors to the shrine is located, and then walk almost directly past the entrance of the shrine. The visit will I do when I come back this afternoon, I think to myself, the many stairs, I must save my energy a bit and meet my first pilgrimage obligations. Unfortunately, there are here in town only two whole Henrozeichen, but I know just about the direction and the bridges that I cross, I realize I really. I hate way back because you've already seen everything on the way out, messed it often when you are not careful. But the weather is good, that is really walking weather - it is a bit hazy so it is warm without burning that makes the sun shine on the fur. In the city I can think of little stickers on walls - apparently there is a dog brands, but stickers for each year. Past the stone figures, which look like the stone heads of Easter Island, I continued to walk. I still see a fire station and in the next little town I'm at an intersection in front of a shrine of another break. This is today a real plain stage, but shortly before my goal, I still have to overcome a hill as it goes up to Manoike reservoir.

digression Bangai temple No. 17 Kannoji (神 野寺)

the Bangai temple here can r be translated as the symbol characters (kanji) for "God", "field" and "temple". But since I could not find an exact translation, I have to put up with the name "God's temple area," although he, next to the water reservoir Mannoike anything but lies on fields. The water reservoir has already met me, was able to finance at Temple No.74 (Kōyamaji) the construction of the Daishi from the credit for the transformation of the Mannoike. Our Kobo Daishi is not only in a spiritual way a human rescuer, in addition to his many talents in the visual arts, he could after the reconstruction of flood-threatened reservoirs also an engineer, today we would call him there as a project manager, to add to his resume. Of course, everything came together donations and workers when working with Kōbō Daishis aid and its rituals had also assisted the Buddha on his side.

Bangai The temple is then a bit disappointing. While others have quite large Bangais facilities and buildings, this temple has only a single, small building, in the temple and office are located. Interesting this is the big statue of Kobo Daishi, who looks here on the water reservoir. There is no temple, but a soda machine. Great welcome I think to myself, but Pilgrims in the office, I have an attentive admirer of my pilgrimage book (nokyocho), who asks me whether I had forgotten Temple No. 16. No, I reply, the entry of No. 16 is at the very beginning of the Bangai temple, the place that I had actually planned for Bangai Temple No. 1. I also take a tour of the temple garden. If it had been the right time, I would have peonies and rhododendrons can be enjoyed in full bloom, the flowers are only sporadically seen. There is also a group of Buddha statues that were probably associated with the Japanese chart. The Japanese and Chinese horoscope tells the people not following the month in which they are born, a symbolic Animal and its strengths and weaknesses, but after the year. So that each of all persons who have been born the same year, the same animals are. These include: the rat, buffalo, tiger, hare, dragon, snake, horse, sheep, the monkey, the rooster, the dog and the pig. The selection of these animals comes from a legend, Buddha invited the animals after the New Year. They were on the order of arrival of the honor given to the animal symbol of a whole year to be. The rat was the first turn, which they had ridden up to their goal on the Buffalo and only short of target on his head jumped to Buddha. However, it had a cat before said that the meeting would be held until a day later, it resulted that the cat came too late and there has been a deep enmity between the cats and rats and mice. Since I was born in 1971, so the pigs or wild boars better count them, so here I am according to the Chinese horoscope and good natured, kind and amiable, but also impulsive and honest. This can be considered now as one will, because almost more familiar than the horoscope of the Japanese on their blood group affiliation. This system with the scientific "Touch" is just as important as ours, the star chart. Other countries - other habits.

For Break in the sea I want me a can of "CC Lemon", a lemon effervescent vitamin C supplement, out of the machine. But I stumble, because I could get my 150 yen for both 0.25 and 0.5 liters. Who would buy even a small can, if he can get more for your money? Since I'm thirsty, I prefer my 0.5 liter can and do it myself with a pack of bread sticks comfortably on a bench at the lake.

While on the way there I walked down the street, I make a detour on the way back through the adjacent park where a species is created river area and in a rose garden you can admire peonies. In China, the peony symbolizes wealth, or peony, Pledge of love, a woman in love, fulfilling life and the gentleness of Buddha. says a Japanese proverb:
立て ば 芍薬, 座れ ば 牡丹, 歩く 姿 は 百 合 の 花
tateba shakuyaku, suwareba botan, Aruku sugata wa Yuru no hana
Standing like a "Chinese Peony", when sitting as a shrub peony , and the way it is as the flower of a lily.
The saying describes the three different ideals of beauty to be met by a woman: If she is, it should resemble a Chinese peony, with its strong stems, and the full Bloom. When she sits, she should however act as fragile as the shrub peony. And if she leaves, she will be graceful as a lily.

I quickly walk back the way to Kotohira, as the day is still young and I treat myself to a trip to Kotohira Shrine. Since I have done my day's work and the miles to Bangai temple No. 17 can be seen as plain stage, I still have enough strength and stamina to climb the many stairs here to the shrine.

digression Kotohira Shrine (Kotohira-gu, formerly also Konpira-dai-gong)
the Kotohira Shrine is a Shinto shrine in the town of Kotohira Kagawa Prefecture on the Shikoku. He is in 1st Century have been established and is located on Mount Zōzu.
During the way to the main shrine measures 785 stone steps (521 meters), it is a proud 1358 to the innermost sanctum. Main deity of the shrine (kami) has long been Ōmononushi (-no-mikoto), a body responsible for all aspects of maritime deity who is revered as a Buddhist deity "Kompira. It is not so clear whether it was Shinto or Buddhist shrine. But in 1165 the deity by Sutoku (75th emperor; 1119-1164) replaced. In the Hogen Rebellion of 1156 he quarreled with his brother (Go-Shirakawa), who now after the death of his father and Toba Tenno Sutokus abdication, in the future the Office should hold and what power, who could have living in the monastery, Ex-Tenno. The so-called "InseI system" saw that is also abdicated monarch before certain power and influence. Sutoku lost the rebellion and was sent into exile. As the results, now dominated by the clans of the Samurai on the imperial house and it came first to build one out of samurai government. But Sutoku us to meet on our pilgrimage still further - in Temple No. 79, the Tennoji ("Emperor Temple"), the word for Emperor (Tenno) its name suggests is Sutokus been preserved corpse after his assassination in Tsutsumigaoka (1164) until the customer also had reached the then imperial city of Kyoto. After 21 days in the cooling of a source in the Temple No. 79 of the body was then transferred to Mount Shiromine, where he was cremated near the temple No. 81 and today his mausoleum (built 1414) stands. Fearing that the unjust in his lifetime treated ex-emperor, who still has this died a violent death bring misery to the imperial family or as a ghost (oni), Demon (yōkai) or Tengu-shape (goblin) punish his tormentors could, the shrine was dedicated to him. This should calm his restless soul.

But back to today's Kotohira Shrine, from every major shipping company Japan has an amulet on board. For sailors it is a tradition, small barrels with offerings in the sea to throw. From the one who finds this, it is expected to take her to the shrine. It is also quite common in Japan, the Sake (rice wine), which takes place at the ceremonies in the shrine used to donate the same as comprehensive. The barrels are then stacked in small pyramids in front of the buildings. Since it is not surprising that at the very beginning of the path to the shrine a small sake museum and many stones are carved on which the donor and the donation amount, the way line.

The temple leaders of the Bishop Taisen Miyata mentioned at this point in the death of the pilgrim Shizue Sawada Seattle (Washington) 7 May 1982 - may her soul rest in peace, or "Namu Daishi Henjo Kongo" how would the pilgrims speak in me.

It really hold a lot of steps up to the cry of buildings, but most pilgrims are satisfied with this first encounter. Here, ships of all sizes and shapes are exhibited. Of any self-built solar boats to Japan's astronauts, everything is represented, in the broadest sense has nothing to do with shipping, space or utilities controlled ride. There are warehouses and cry a little stage, probably on the parties to the cry of traditional Japanese theater ("No Theater") will be held with masks. A kind of terrace, you can take a look at the river Kanakura and the whole underlying level. I notice a mountain, the so having a beautiful cone shape as the dormant volcano Mount Fuji. But I'm nowhere near the actual sanctuary, because the stairs leading further to just below the summit of the mountain Zōzu. I get easily the few armed with walking sticks cry pilgrims, it drives up to the innermost sanctuary high. Whenever the steps here to change the direction at the turning point is a small hut to rest. But I'm fit as a fiddle, or it pulls me in the thigh muscles still make up my knee problems. I fly almost the mountain high and need to be beaten at the end. Once again, construction work on the Holy of Holies! It rest a few pilgrims sit up here on the benches, but a man in uniform with a white helmet ensures that none of the barrier exceeds lightly. Although you can buy good luck and have a look through a Münzfeldstecher, but the building, what I really wanted to see, is shielded with pylons (Verkehrshüttchen) and networks. So I step back on the way back - downhill is a lot faster. I myself humming accommodating pilgrims an encouraging "Gambatte" ("Do your best") against, it is a custom of the I've known from my Fuji ascent ago, but time and again applying, if I so see an old Muttchen, as it is towed up the steep path to a temple. I then hope that I have afflicted me take an example and look forward to the return path is not even half as challenging as the way out. On the way back I can think of countless figures, statues and buildings in the eye. Here is even a statue of an elephant and a statue of former Tenno Hirohito account I can. Here, before the entrance is a small, worn dog statue. Whether this is a statue in such a way as I know her from Tokyo? There is the dog Hachiko, who his master for many years (to 1924) long at the station of Shibuja picked from work, a monument was set. Since it even after his death, a professor at the university working, young master still 9 years at the same spot waiting for him, the dog was the epitome of loyalty. Even in life, this dog got a monument and the main railway station (Hachiko Exit), was named after him that he 1935 to filariasis and some say he is also on the skewers received by the delicacies with which he was fed by passers-by was.

But back to the Kotohira dog, whose statue is a thank you from pilgrims cry is, who could not play any more the long journey to the heart of the sanctuary. His model is in fact a dog have been who acts as a link between pilgrims and senior shrine and pilgrims, with gifts to the cry went up the mountain priests. And the candy shop assistants just outside the shrine, I was able to find that these places are inherited and the most seats because of the tradition here, not because they make a "good business". Now back to Zentsuji temple, which I still pay her a flying visit before dinner. Above all, the 500 Rakan or arhat, as the Buddha's disciples are called in Sanskrit, it did to me. 500 because after the death of the historical Shakyamuni Buddha (536-483 BC?), He is funny in a corrupt manner Court died, 500 of his best students had gathered to his teachings (sutras) gather. Each statue is shaped differently, there are thick and thin, bearded and smooth, Grim and Merry, sitting and standing, muscular and lean, gentle and fierce, Chinese and Japanese, and even a stand with a hat as a Christian missionary and between then some 88 Buddha statues for the 88 temples. It will even give a woman among the Rakan, in the temple 66, which also has a 500 Rakan group. A pilgrim wandered up to me (Kathy) from Germany, she has even found and photographed. But Zentsuji can not get enough: So many halls, Buildings, trees, stone figures and other sights!

As I now return to my ryokan, I had cleaned up my stuff to be safe, I find my futon in the closet. He was so someone must have put away - that's all around service times. I have my own bathroom, but would also have had no problems with a shared bathroom. At dinner, there are almost the same as yesterday: fire pot with udon Nudler, mussels, crab claw and shrimp, a piece of fish, pickled vegetables with Obergine and cucumber, radish salad, steamed pumpkin, sashimi, shrimp and clam meat, of course, rice and tofu in all variations. My landlady wants me fatten well, since she has probably heard yesterday that I wanted to take a photo because I look so thin in the face. Therefore, I still get an extra helping of shrimp served, even though I have something to do with no extras to eat everything. The talk of the pilgrims in the dining room is on the subject of weather (tenki), it will rain tomorrow, with 70% probability (ame). I do not know much Japanese, but I see the people from listening and talking too fast and they are not special, it surprised me how much I understand after all. The hostess explains the fellow pilgrims in Japanese, that they ever would have housed Americans and Australians, but I would be the first German woman. Of course think my landlady that I do not understand it because we have so far been very good with English to make ends meet and I am grateful. But to have a little bit Japanese in store, can not hurt you it does not have to hang it around and put his foot when the Japanese then again on defense. But I have bad luck with the weather, because even today, when I wanted to photograph the illuminated pagoda of Zentsuji, it begins to rain.

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