Der 40. Tag in Japan Die Nacht ist kalt hier oben in den Bergen, aber zum Glück hatte ich mich entschlossen, im Okadaya Ryokan zu übernachten. So habe ich mich in meinen dicken Futon gekuschelt und die Nacht doch recht gut überstanden. Als Frühstück muss mein restlicher Proviant herhalten, aber um 6.00 Uhr bin ich schon wieder abmarschbereit. Ich hätte nicht gedacht, dass dieser Ryokan so gemütlich ist, sogar Sitzklos haben sie hier oben installiert. Was works from the outside like a small storage shed, but it turns out as comfortable accommodation. When I leave the house, I get from my landlord nor a can of tea as Osettai (pilgrim gift) hands. I walk back to the place with the stone lantern, which I had photographed yesterday, but the light is different and the atmosphere is gone. After a brief look into the chart book, I must say that I'm on the way back to the mountain railway station in the valley, so I walk in the opposite direction to the mountain station. I'm cold and because there are machines at the station with soups, I refresh myself first in a warm Möhrchensuppe. Behind the station Yakuri-sanjo runs the road 115 to the valley. I follow the highway, I have all to myself, as soon as a car drives up the mountain. From here I can see even some of the buildings in Temple No. 84, I think it ruins the hotel where I passed the day before. It is now very well recognize that the complex is situated on a plateau, except along the Gokensan mountain where the temple is located just below the summit. I walk these words to me since I startled a pheasant. Now I'm wide awake without caffeine what so makes a bit of adrenaline in the morning anyway. Until I reach the valley again, or should I call it better port or coastline to me is still a golden retriever at his feet, remarkable - as a working dog He probably would have been chained, but as a lap dog would you take care of him anymore. Because the rascal has stolen most of it from home.
I pass a small lake with a WC-house, there are also a lovely wisteria at the benches that invite you to linger, but for a break, it is still too early. I see stone sculptures of owls, and inform a Buddha with turrets passing, a new shrine, and am finally looking at the sea. Here it is again the defenses, are intended to prevent is pressed in adverse weather conditions, the sea water in small rivers and so floods are triggered. I am still a pilgrim's hut in my maps one, where I come over here. I now walk between the sea and railway line, my path would lead me directly into the Shidoji Temple (No. 86). A combining (24-h loading) of the Daily Yamazaki "chain, where I wanted to increase my food, it no longer exists. Surprised, I walk past an old building that looks like an old school. But why is secured with barbed wire and so bums in front of him, instead of being demolished or renovated, I do not know. Just curious, a building with the German word "highway" is. It could have been a bust gone home or a car spare parts sales. The tall building is empty in any case. Finally I see a blue road sign that says "Shidoji Temple" and shortly after, I'm two stone pillars, behind which lies the temple area.
digression Temple No. 86 Shidoji (志 度 寺)
"The Temple of wish fulfillment" refers to the legend, the "Ama no Tamatori" ("diver the jewels acquired again") is, broken down as happened have to : As the daughter of Fujiwara Kamatari (614-669, founder of the Fujiwara clan), traveled to China to the concubine, an influential politician and friend of the Emperor Tenji (38th emperor 626-672) of the Tang Emperor Taitsung to be the father gave her three jewels. When the father died, however, sent the jewels returned by ship, as her brother Fubito it for the construction of Kofukuji Temple (669; as Yamashina-dera) needed in Nara. According to legend, the ship should still have been in the Shido Bay ran aground and jewels from the dragon king, who rules the sea, stolen. Now Fubito made personally because they reprocess. He married a local woman diver (Japanese title "ama") who bore him a son. After Fubito had given her the promise of using her son as heir, they purchased the jewels from the bottom of the sea. This they drew the wrath of the dragon king to himself and with a library, which cost them their lives, they brought the jewels back to the surface. They now grace the front of the statue in Shakuson Kofukuji (central Chūkondō Hall) in Nara. Ye son Fusasaki progenitor of the northern branch of the Fujiwara family was.
Another legend has it that the temple was founded in 626 of a nun named Han Sonoko, the Yakushi hall was built and a piece of wood, which she found in the Shido Bay, has carved a statue of Kannon elfgesichtigen. Actually, the origins of the temple date back much earlier, because of the Gohonzon (Main Hall) dates from the 6th Century, at the time the Empress Suiko (554-628, 33rd imperial ruler). 681 to the above-mentioned Fujiwara Fuhito have erected a monument to his late wife, is this location from now on called "sacred site of Shido. 693 his son, Fusasaki, building for worship was built for his mother leave and have named the temple "Shidoji. Whether the monk Gyōgi (668-749) was involved there or not remains open. Between 810 and 824 Kobo Daishi came here, he is also the Honzon (chief deity), the Juuichimen (elfgesichtige) Kannon originate. Together with the figures of Fudo and Bishamonten, they are protected as "national treasure". 1670, the current Temple with money from Yorish Matsudaira, Lord of Takamatsu built. Interesting is the landscape garden of the Muromachi period (1333 -1568), by Hosokawa Katsumoto (1430-1473), a high government officials and builder of the famous Zen garden in Japan (Ryoan-ji in Kyoto), was designed. The Wächtertor (niōmon), the Main Hall (Hondo) and the five-story pagoda, which dates back to 1973, are also worth seeing ..
seems to me the terrain somewhat neglected, especially the many small outbuilding. The so highly prized landscape garden gave me the impression that it was just a dried up and overgrown pond. But I may have not sharpened his eye for such Japanese art skills. Whenever something looks very simple, plain and then thrown as may be the high art. For them look for something simple, it requires years of study and experience. I am thinking for example of a circle that you draw as an exercise on a piece of paper. On the surface it's just a simple circle, have yet to be made at the individual brush hairs themselves. But ever tried to draw such a perfectly round circle with a large Japanese brush? Looks easy, but in the implementation involves a lot of practice and experience - just art.
The roof turret here, they probably go back to the legend of the diver, I find particularly interesting, since they could be, depending on the interpretation of both small mermaids, angels and Japanese (Absaras). I leave the temple and keep on the lookout for a way to put in a good breakfast. When I see a sign for a McDoof, I prefer taste threads - for such a great cheeseburger it's really too early, but here in Japan should be all about to buy the clock. But I am disappointed because it is just 10.00 clock, here in the "Drive-in" only serves breakfast - so no burger. Fortunately, there is one next door Sunkus combining (24-h-Shop), in which I, a Japanese pizza (okonomiaki) and a portion may be purely pull noodles. I hesitate on my food as well.
goes after a plain stage it again in the mountains, perhaps to reach my goal, Temple No. 88, today. A road sign announces to me that until No. 87 Temple (Nahaoji) for 4 km until Kikaku Park 6 km to the finish Ōkuboji Temple (No. 88) to complete another 20 km. While I will leave the park on your left Kikaku, here I could still visit the Usa Hachiman Shrine, I will come to all cases in the "Maeyama Ohenro Kouryu Salon", a kind of pilgrim museum. Currently running two pilgrims in front of me with red Backpacks and two others follow me. These are the first walking pilgrimage, which I see for a long time. That as early as a traveling fellow pilgrims from time to time in the temples meet again, is probably almost impossible, because I have the additional cancellation (Bangai) cost so much time, so I could not catch my friend. But sometimes you will not take on certain things. Issues such as the tofu car that followed me for quite some time and with his sound system with the announcement "Tofu Watanabe oshii desu wa - desu ikaga" almost drives you crazy. It means so much as "Watanabe tofu is delicious - as it were? Since the selling cars here at a walking pace through the residential area moves, the distance between me and the biggest pain in the neck is not. You can see more and more that you get to the destination of the pilgrimage in more detail. Everywhere signs are placed on which pilgrims are shown. But then finally I am but before Nagaoji temple and addressed promptly by a Japanese woman in English. She asks me for my pilgrimage, I have now done almost. She herself is a holiday pilgrimage, ie it is the pilgrimage in stages during their holidays. This year they will complete the pilgrimage tour of the 88 temples - after five years. In Nagaoji it is not only to pray, but will eat together with her companions for lunch. The new me, however, that not only Shokubō, so stay with breakfast and dinner, is offered in a temple, but also lunch.
Digression No. 87 Temple Nagaoji (长尾 寺)
"The Temple of the long tail" has 738 of Gyōgi (668-749) on the orders of Emperor Shomu (701-756; 45 Tenno) was founded, he has also the statue of Kannon Shō of willow wood as Honzon (main deity) carved. Before traveling Kobo Daishi to China, was established here a promise in which he carried out the first seven days of January, the Goma fire ritual talismans while the population was spread involved. This was the origin for the "Daikaiyōfuka Ubai" ("Rite to chase happiness"), a kind of race that takes place every year and play in the big Mochis (rice cake made from pounded rice) a role. Around the year 825, the majority of buildings have been renovated. In the 16th Century, the temple was burning like so many others down, but was using Ikoma Kazumasa (1555-1610), 2nd Daimyo (ruler) of Takamatsu rebuilt. Also in 1681, it was the sovereign of Takamatsu, Matsudaira Yorish time, money and land donated for the temple. During this time the temple of the Shingon also converted to Tendai Buddhism. Noteworthy is the grave of Shizuka Gozen, mistress of Minamoto Yoshitsune, which could be ordained after the death of the Beloved (1189) here in the temple as a nun. Even today the name is Shizuka Yakushi, a hermitage where she has lived at that time, and the name Tsuzumi-ga-Fuchi pond, their presence back. There is a Niōmon (Wächtertor) and a "Onari" called Tor.
with "long tail" may be a long branch of a pine tree be meant, which here is growing across the path to the main hall. The grave of the noble lady, unfortunately I have not seen it, but so pretty, the temple was not for me. I always find it a bit irreverent when cars are parked behind the gate to the temple grounds, but perhaps that is the adaptation of the temple, one of and lunch. While the entrance is the "temple restaurant but nicely decorated, with a small garden with a fountain, it has even placed a red shield, the watch has a house next to the stone statue somehow out of place. The kanji (character symbol) for "time" is indeed from the character for "sun" and "temple", but one should be at a temple visit, where you are looking for rest and contemplation, not necessarily remember the runaway time.
I leave the temple again to make myself on the way to the Pilgrimage Museum. I pass cars, have to spread their owners futons (Japanese bedding). What I used for have held a measure of protection from auto-obsessed Japanese, put it turned out as a disinfectant for the possibility of futon beds. Japanese are of the opinion that you not only futons and air regularly move should not, direct sunlight, especially the UV light is also located in the futon neutralize pathogens! Why does it hang around the houses futons. Here I must mention that such a balcony in Japan has a very different task than ours. While we use the balcony as a garden to relax and possibly replacement for smoking. If he in Japan a kind of storage room and laundry room dar. here is superfluous, what is not in the already much too small apartments can accommodate storage. In addition, here brackets attached from which hang the large drying racks, the clothes are then attached or said futons. Use of this pull-measured at the 3-meter dry Standen is due to the use of kimonos. Long ago, this bar simply pulled from sleeve to sleeve, to the relatively large quantities of dry material better.
But back to the trail, one of the Kabe river to the dam Maeyama out. Here at the dam is also the pilgrims Museum, which I pay her a visit. In the museum I will be greeted warmly. A older man who speaks little English squeezed me out for a drink of tea, he would issue me a pilgrim's certificate. We exchange business cards from even that he should make it easier to write my name. I also get another pin, so a small pin with Henro logo gift. As Osettai (pilgrim gift) he handed me a packet of biscuits and I have to smile because I know these kind of butter biscuits from Germany. But when he passes me a white ribbon with dried fruit, but then I'm not sure what it is. But I would like to thank and start my tour of the museum. Everything possible has been gathered regarding the pilgrimage: Old clothes pilgrims, pilgrim books, newspaper articles and other reports. On one wall, the 88 temples with images and maps are listed here can even name his label (osamefuda), you should have forgotten to make a temple, afterwards. When I want to leave the museum, says the old gentleman to me again and shows me on a card that he mitgibt me that the way to No. 88 on the temple shrine Kurusu is currently impassable. Since I already the "old pilgrim route" would strike, which brings me around to the mountains and Nyotai Yahazu, I upset my plans are not so. I will still visit the Bangai temple namely No. 20 and which is unfortunately in the opposite direction to Ōkubōji (No. 88). I plan, therefore in a ryokan called Takeyashiki to seek accommodation to deposit my luggage there, because the additional cancellation (Bangai) Join me will cost at least a day.
It has now started to rain so I give up the plan to visit the Temple No. 88 today. So I try Takegashiki Ryokan in check, but not immediately find the entrance and landed in a shop. Unfortunately, the vendor says very little English, so my question about the price for two nights, although I again in Japanese, and after many inquiries to be answered incorrectly. This is so the horror of every travelers to Japan. You come into a simple act Ryokan, thinks be no evil and must then pay for really expensive. As a foreigner, can not only poorly distinguish between real or artificial simplicity and artful simplicity. While giving me the good woman a small room, should I pay now but 10 500 yen, but unfortunately would appear to be the wish father to the thought, because the more I am here looking around, the more unbelievable I find it, I for my little broom closet only so little to pay. Or was now a Sonderpausschale for the uninitiated foreigner?. When I want to pay, stirred from the lady at the check first. But when I take the dinner to me, I roll out of sheer rage that tears into his food. The food is so fine and complex prepared, that can mean only that it 10.500Yen almost 80 €, Accommodation for a are. Although I recognize that Ryokan sell primarily their food and that the accommodation is really secondary, while a business hotel sells mainly the night and eating less, but the estimation of prices is it far to hard. Especially as a foreigner in the not so noble body Ryokan usually gets the best rooms, but then again are already the most expensive. I do not want considered as stingy and of course you can also enjoy the end of this ordeal was good, but I will then decide it himself and not feel as if I was, albeit unwittingly, laid on the cross. After I regained, I insist to pay today so that tomorrow I can start very early. My plan for tomorrow is as follows: To walk Temple No. 88, back to fetch the pilgrims entry and to store luggage, then make their way to the Bangai temple No. 20 and again from there. But it will all turn out differently because I am so far simply been too good!
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