The 37th Day in Japan Today's breakfast at 6:00 clock. The hostess has set out to fatten me so I at least during my stay here no more losing weight. I have served for breakfast a salad with extra sausage. I believe that my Japanese, we would love foreigners sausages. But as the Japanese "imitation sausage" with no good German bockwurst or Vienna are to be compared, they lack most of the smoke flavor, I can not get used to such a tasting. Since I prefer to enjoy traditional Japanese cuisine. Unfortunately, I have prized me now, I would still liked to stay, but call the Temple. The weather promises to be better than yesterday announced - because of rain! When the landlady I shell out another 7850 yen, but I receive two coffee candy and a packet of handkerchiefs. She tells me that now is the cherry blossom end and is replaced by the azaleas bloom. When I asked the school children with uniforms, they explained to me that most girls wear pink or red school bags, while boys prefer the color black. Something like that I was struck even then by the identification cards of my Japanese company. While all Japanese women had chosen red ribbons to wear the cards around their necks, I've been the only one who has preferred as the men a blue ribbon. Blue and green are my favorite colors, as a child I was carrying probably too much red, pink and pink, these colors so I can not stand anymore.
But back to the ryokan, where I take a photo of the little room fountain, here is right at the entrance. Whether the Chinese philosophy of "wind and water", also corresponds to Fengshui, which is to keep the positive energy in the house or just used for decoration. In any event, the hostess washes here the walking sticks of the pilgrims. Since the floor symbolizes the foot by Kobo Daishi, one can thus build up good karma and avoid passing that the pilgrims Dirt into the house or in the decorative niche (tokonoma) carry out the much-traveled Stock usual way is deposited. I have confined myself to the floor with his hat deposit accessible at the door of my room, so I do not remember him even after I shouldered my big backpack. I must further now and say goodbye to my "mother Ryokan" which has taken care of so touching to me. The few miles (4 km) to the temple Konzōji have run fast.
Digression No. 76 Temple Konzōji (金 仓 寺)
"The Temple of the Golden Memory" in 774, originally known as Do-zen-ji (path + Q + temple "Temple of the path of goodness") founded by a man named Waki Dozen. It is the birthplace of Kōbō Daishis Enchin nephew (also an honorary title Chishō Daishi, 814-891), the later sixth should be Patriarch of the Tendai school of Buddhism. Accordingly, the temple is still led by Tendai. In the early 9th Century, after having studied Kobo Daishi in China, he came here to pray for his ancestors. He carve the statue of Yakushi Nyorai and consecrated him to the temple. Also Enchin it moved to China where he devoted himself, however, the Tendai. Accordingly, he designed this temple after the model of the Green Dragon Temple (Ching-Lung-ji) in Chang. 928, the temple at the behest of Emperor Daigo (885-930, 60th emperor) renamed Konzōji, he had become a size of 132 buildings and 32 km2 achieved. After the temple complex in the 16 Century, burned down, it was rebuilt on a smaller scale of Yorish Matsudaira (1622-1695), ruler of the province of Sanuki. Only the statue of Yakushi Nyorai and a famous self-portrait Enchins survived this fire, which killed 1983 of the high priest was. The famous Konzōji but also for the "Tsuma ga Eshi no matsu", "a pine tree, which the wife held back." What it means is Shizuko, the wife of General Nogi Marsuke, which was housed in Konzōji three years. He had fought in the "Japanese Civil War" (1877) for the emperor and was famous for his capture of Port Arthur in the Russo-Japanese War (1904-1905). Why is he here for a long time was accommodated to shut my knowledge, since the couple is from Tokyo. The wife had arrived unannounced, but to visit her husband. But he wanted them sent home, but when they hesitate at the pine tree came by, she sat down in their shadows. After some time of reflection, she decided to spend the night in a hotel in Tadotsu. It should perhaps be mentioned that both the suicide by 09/13/1912 have been ritual suicide (seppuku) in order to follow the late Emperor Mutsushito ("Meiji", 122 emperor) to death. Other countries - as the Romans do!
The site of the Konzōjis is wide and everywhere you can find details, usually found in any other temple. There are beautiful skylights, I see a statue of a Yambushi (mountain ascetic) and Daikoku (one of the seven lucky gods) figure, which you can gild suitable to the temple with his own hand. But even a small silver statue of Jizo and the older gentleman, it is probably not the nephew of the Daishi Enchin it did to me. The latter statue is Haori (Japanese short jacket) and hakama (Japanese divided skirt) clothed. Applied to Europe, one would say he is wearing a dress uniform, just the traditional clothing of a Japanese. Since he does not wear bald or anything else resembling a monk could be the General Nogi. Since I have sharpened but not quite the look of Japanese faces, I'm not sure. Even on the net it gives the information that in the last city Zentsuji gives Kagawa-Ken-Gokoku shrine which was built in honor of General Nogi. In the card I can only find the Kasuga Shrine, located near Temple No. 74, the Kōyamaji. But at least I'm sure I've seen the Pine said, because edged it by a stone fence and equipped with information boards is. I should also like the pearl-Gong, who is here in front of a hall instead of the normal gongs (waniguchi). If you pull on the line, large wooden beads are moved, then beat each other with a loud bang. A sound that I've heard from a distance, but it did not fit the part operated by a pilgrim in front of my eyes. Of the many lovely Ema tablets I take pictures. I have never visited a temple or shrine, where so were many different motives. Normally shows as a votive tablets, on which you can write a wish, one of 12 animals horoscope for the year (2010 - Tiger) or a scene from a legend that has something to do with the locality. But here, many of several. Also, the wild boar that was actually in 2006, according to the calendar turn depends, here, although at the end of the tablets did their duty and are also burned, as the talisman, which had been bought last year. This is such a lucky charms over time, "unload" and the close connection with his support is widespread belief in Japan and brought the temples and shrines, an annual shopping frenzy in the first days of the new year. Who wants to unprotected start the new year?
Leads me my Way back to the point where I passed three days ago, I now want to visit Bangai No. 18. On the way there, just behind the Temple No. 76, I notice an alternative Pagoda: It is a concrete tower, which is surrounded by four balcony-like railings. Since mine is the traditional wooden pagoda, which can burn though, he prefers. But who like modern design, you should not miss. I walk on the Takamatsu Expressway (Highway) along, bent on a sunkus combining (24-h-shop) and must then escape back to my Japanese card. I do not Henrozeichen around the track. Not even a pilgrim lodge that has a very different impression on me does is listed here. From a distance I can see a pagoda, but I am disappointed because this is part of a temple, all just a few hundred meters from Kaiganji (Bangai No. 18). I still walk past a protection system that can be probably lower too powerful waves so that the river does not overflow its banks and already I stand before the temple gate. This gate is a great feature on the Shikoku pilgrimage, for here live sumo wrestler served as a model for the Guardian statues (NIO or deva) of the gate (niōmon). What an honor as to remain for future generations in mind. Sumo wrestling is indeed the national sport in Japan per se, but like so many traditions lose the young Japanese have the interest to maintain their old culture. Not only the audience is shrinking, even the professional image of the wrestler, which is characterized by daily training and the strict hierarchy in the Sumoställen, does not fit well into the picture of a young Japanese man who would rather earn as a sale Ryman (Japanese businessman) his money. Not to mention physical conditions to be obtained with special foods and lead to the active combat phase of a Sumotori (sumo wrestler) lasts only a few years. What used to be as a sacrifice to the gods (kami) was and is deeply rooted in the Shinto faith, is now held six times a year a so-called basho (tournament).
digression Bangai temple No. 18 Kaiganji (海岸 寺)
"The temple of the sea coast" or "beach temple" might be called this temple too, who founded by Kobo Daishi and Sho Kannon has been consecrated. Unfortunately, there is the Bangai temple (temple side) only a few details on the net. But afterwards it is often clever and I think the complex with the pagoda to another temple. I had indeed noticed that the Kaiganji is quite small but, here on the beach, but had attributed to the fact that next door is a youth hostel. Even so, one can improve the Temple budget, if you do not just pilgrims accommodation (Shukobō), but for the "sour cucumber time" in the summer or winter also offers young Japanese accommodation. I learn from a compilation of the 20 Banagai temples, I have received from the son of the head temple of Bangai 20 (Story follows Bangai at No. 20!), That the complex with pagoda is part of the Kaiganji. He is probably as "inner sanctum" (Buddhist Ceremony) of Kaiganji and is the "mountain portion" of the temple. He should have been built 733 and is considered the birthplace of Kobo Daishi, if this would not claim even the Zentsuji for themselves. In all situations, the Daishi here, after his return from China, the first time a technique of Shingon Buddhism have applied to cure a rampant disease. The Daishi is said to have also buried on the mountain behind the temple complex of sutras, to cleanse the land. But as I said - I did not know and instead made a reconnaissance trip to the beach. In the temple here on the beach, the hall like a supermarket for pilgrims utensils is made. The Buddha images, or are they Absaras (Buddhist angel) hanging on the wall here seem to me like figureheads, as their bodies run obliquely forward. Although I have never seen a Japanese ship with a figurehead (with the exception of the Nippon Maru, a former sail training ship, built along European lines, in Yokohama today serves as a museum ship) But maybe that was commonly used for larger vessels or in the old days? In the temple garden I can admire the 13 Buddhas of the Shingon Buddhism, the seven lucky gods are gathered here, but the most impressive I find here the arbor. It sounds now so profane - small and wooden, but here in Japan, arcades are built from rods that are "planted" with wisteria vines and similar plants. Thus, a living roof with branches, leaves and flowers, and every beast that crawls so and flies. The arbor is 20 m long, has a roof on the side, because the plants have not grown too tight.
Now I have to but again on our way, I will now come up to at least Temple No. 77th The road leads me here right on the coast, I follow the road No. 21 through a port, a shrine over. When I meet a European style house, in front of the still is to a moose in full gallop with a child between the blades immortalized as a statue, I am somewhat perplexed. Before a business is a parrot, and the next odd building seems to be the local museum, I can make in a shelter an exploded fire engine. I see a post office and try my "overweight" in the form of a package to Germany to get rid of. This is post, the first episode, but I was wrong - the guy at the counter wants to understand not just that I'm on vacation here in Japan. He is determined to have a Japanese address! When I enter the ryokan in Zentsuji, enough for him not because I have stayed there only two days. Conscientiously as I am, I show him that I neither have something valuable which will send dangerous. Overall, I present to him the contents of my potential package three times. But the guy on the phone around just for minutes, and comes to a conclusion. Now I'm really a neck, with tongues of angels I have now been told half an hour for him and I've torn apart my luggage for free! Displeased I pack my things and a "domo arigato gozaimashita "(thanks) and a bow, I leave this outpost of the bureaucracy. Heaven, why I speak so little Japanese, but I think it would have not helped. Japanese always keep strictly to the rules, sometimes called the supervisor, would decide, however, never even if sometimes what happens unexpectedly. I walk further and I am quite surprised then, if one believes that one runs on the road No. 21 and must then determine appalled that there is a second point 21, which still runs almost parallel to the first. What is now to minimize my anger at the attempt fail, my traveling weight, or general mental exhaustion? How is one to be based there? But fortunately I announced a blue street sign that there is now another 200 meters to the temple Dōryūji. Pig had!
Digression No. 77 Temple Dōryūji (道 隆 寺)
"The Temple of the resulting path was originally founded by Wake Michitaka 749th He wanted to do penance for it that he has accidentally killed his nurse with a bow and arrow, because he had shot one night on a strange light. He was also a small statue of the Yakushi Nyorai from mulberry as Honzon (main deity) has carved for the temple. In the 9th Century Kobo Daishi was staying here, carved a 75 cm high statue of Yakushi Nyorai, in which he held with the smaller of Michi take. Waki Choyu, second chief priest of the temple enlarged the temple complex, the wish of his father's Michi Take accordingly to 23 buildings and the temple now called "Do Ryuji. For this he sold the mulberry family farm, which was used for the production of silk from silkworms, and all his belongings. 976 the temple buildings were destroyed by an earthquake in the 16th Century by fire. In the Meiji period (1868-1912) repair and restoration works were carried out and the two-story pagoda built in 1985. You can find the main hall (Hondo) a statue of Kobo Daishi and Emon Saburo, who founded the pilgrimage to find. There are also 270 bronze statues of Kannon, and the "Five guards, Enchin (814-891), the nephew of the Daishi, be attributed. The Daishi himself is said to have painted a picture of the "Five Saints" and a picture of the "Star Mandala" are now considered "important national cultural asset. Strictly speaking, the temple is now a Dai-Honzan ("General Headquarters") to the Daigo-ha branch of Shingon, namely the shintoorientierten Shugendō (Bergasketentum). But since Chishō (nephew of the Daishi, Tendai high priest) this year to read , the "Lotus Sutra" were held and again, both Tendai and Shingon, priest sent here by imperial order to jointly study Buddhism. Noteworthy here are the huge straw sandals (Waraji) at the gate. In the temple leader is also mentioned that in the area, Tadotsu Town, the Kaiganji Temple (Bangai No. 18), the place where Kobo Daishi is to be born, if not already the main temple No. 75 (Zentsuji) claim would. In addition, the Dojo Shorinji mentioned, which might be particularly interested in martial arts is important because it is the headquarters of this "Shorinji Kempo" mentioned style of karate or Kempos (more China-biased expression of Karate) is. It was in 1947 by a man named Doshin As well-founded in the city Tadotsu, who studied the martial art is rooted in its origins in China. It brings together the various Chinese and Japanese martial arts techniques and the teachings of Buddhism and Bodhidharma, the legendary fighting monks that the martial art from India to China (Shaolin Monastery!) Is said to have brought a holistic system.
The temple is just off the main road, neither forest nor a path in the mountains separating the Temple of urban life. Although there are large trees, but the complex is almost accessible from all sides. There is a small pagoda on the forecourt, where a horde of pigeons has settled. I see a large, central Kannon statue and the kneeling before the Daishi Emon Saburo. But that there should be some connection with martial arts, I am left hidden. But here, too much is behind glass, you can not usually see much. So also the Binzuru, former disciple of Buddha, who will be in contact the pain disappear from the body parts. Did you here in Japan have not heard of anti-reflective? Impressive here are the many small Kannon statues, each equipped with Jizo-bib, yellow necklace and other chains around the arm and hand, a real "divine Army form "if it is not exactly correspond to 88 and the temples of the pilgrimage would. Under a large tree still stands a small shrine. I'm a little break. The sky looks very much like rain, but only as long as it is cloudy, should I be right, then it is not at least as warm. On the toilet I meet even a small devil out of clay - "Oni" and the horned spitzzähnigen comrades are called. A cute diminutive but very different representation in the wild and terrifying mythical creatures of Japanese mythology, who annually to Setsubunfest, early March, with one hand full of soybeans of the house made. I leave the temple and leads me on my way along the road No. 21. I come to the city of round Schildröte how Marugame might mean in the translation. City of raging winds, I would find more suitable, since I came here off the first time my hat just to ensure he wind that gathers here in the skyscraper canyons, can not pull on head. Yet the city is still famous for its castle, paper trays, and a museum of contemporary art. But I leave everything on the left, right, because I see a post office. With the prayer of the pilgrims, "Namu Daishi Henjo Congo" I enter the post office and will be pleasantly surprised. Post Office, the second episode: The office manager has his girls to me going on and the communication is fantastic. In the end, I send my excess weight not only cheaper by sea post to Germany, but let me of the nice ladies even a stamp book with the 88 temples of Shikoku tighten. I pay 2500 yen for my package and I still remembered by the ladies that I have to change the price of stamps still to the total value on the customs declaration. The day is saved - I am happy that the ladies and the head are happy, everything could be so easy if I by members of the Japan Post not yet a pilgrim gift would receive: a cotton cloth (Tenugui) with the logo of the Japan Post. Haha!
I hurry to even come to the temple before 17.00 clock No. 78, the Gōshōji. Just behind the temple there are two houses, of which I could also pinch run back tomorrow, but I'm lucky.
Digression No. 78 Temple Gōshōji (郷 照 寺)
"The Temple of bright home," said to have been originally founded under the name "Dojoji" 725 of Gyōgi (668-749), who is also the figure of Amida Nyorai for is said to have carved Hondo (main hall of the deity). In the 8th Century Kobo Daishi was staying here to rebuild the temple. Between 877 and 885 burned down the temple to 1288 be restored by Ippen (1239-1289) to. The traveling priest Gyōgi started here from the "Pure Land of Amida to preach and when the inhabitants accepted his teaching, he named the temple" Gōshōji "around and turned it into a temple of Nembutsu. Nembutsu describes the invocation of Amida Buddha, the Buddha of the Pure Land, "with the words" Namu Amida Butsu. " The believer is to be born again only through faith and recite this word formula (mantra) in the paradise of Amida, from which he, free from everyday worries, the transition to Nirvana, can perform it (dissolving escape from the cycle of rebirth). flourished between 1333 and 1573 Temple on seven buildings under the protection of the local Klan was burning Hosokawa, resigned then. 1664, he was only 1 Lord of Takamatsu, Matsudaira Yorish rebuilt. Notably, as mentioned, that this temple the only one on the pilgrimage, is the the "Pure Land" (Jishu) is attributed to Buddhism. This should be done from a dispute between the Koyasan Shingon Buddhism at (headquarters in the Kii Mountains) with wandering priests, lay people have that was so violent that he was before the shogun (military ruler of Japan) had to be arbitrated. The lay brothers were sent to Shikoku to just put her in the temple rites. In Daishidō (Daishi Hall) there is a Daishi Statue Yakuyoke Utaszu Daishi called, and how to recognize the first word, you can be averted disaster (yakuyoke). In addition to the Daishihalle is the entrance to the Mantai Kannon hall, the 40,000 silver statues of Kannon, which come from all over Japan. In addition to the main hall (hondo) in the Koshin hall you can see the Congo Shomen deity whose worship protect against disease or to promise a speedy recovery. This blaugesichtige and 6-arm statue is accompanied by 3 monkeys statues. They embody the famous ape, you can also admire the Toshogu Shrine in Nikko, who see no evil, hear nor speak. In the Buddhist view that is in every one of worms held, the report following the death of the sins of that and this "Peca" should follow the example of "three wise monkeys". And then there's a beautiful legend, why the bell of the temple such a far-reaching sound has. When she was cast, is a strange stranger threw a powder into liquid metal, so that now all the bells, the bell next to her to drown.
The Gōshōji is here on the slopes of Mount Aono, I have here up the hill struggle through a residential area and be careful that I do not inadvertently in the Akiba Shrine country. After I went through a simple gate (Sanmon), I find myself on the actual temple site again. From here I had a fantastic first look at the Inlandssee (Setosee), past the sea of houses I can see offshore islands and a large bridge. In addition to the rooflights I can not identify any other monkeys. But the path in front of the temple hall from the left goes down to the Kannon Hall, has this beautiful ceiling tablets. But the exception floral motifs are not only painted, no, it is carved, which were colored later. Also impressive is the Mantai Kannon hall, actually, it could've been Amida figures, but in the darkness of this moderately-lit cellar you can see only the gold glitzernen mini statues here have accumulated in several stages, crowded together on the shelves. However, the extensive grounds is worth a visit, as there is a koi (Japanese carp) pond there, which is followed by an azalea garden. The carefully raked gray stones round out the well-maintained complex. Actually, I Peile to the Business Hotel Utara, but after I have to cross a bridge and find the right way not the same, but then I land in the ryokan Sanuki. As I enter the house, I remember now the food that is already in the dining room on the table. Actually a little early to have dinner, so no refrigeration, have to stand around. But first I refer my room down the hall. No right key and the windows I can not close properly. The wind blows through the cracks between the first and leaves me alone when I close the door between. Fortunately, I have my own bathroom, but before that I enjoy iced tea and cake Kastella (Portuguese pot pie), which has been provided here already for me. I'll shell out for bed breakfast and dinner 6000 yen for dinner and find myself again as the only woman among so many Japanese craftsmen. Not a "posh Ryokan dinner," but solid Japanese home cooking with lots of fried batter, and more rice.
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