Wednesday, 04/29/2009, Koyasan, Youth 
45 in Day in Japan today announced
is for 5.00 rising clock because Kurtsan invited us for 6.00 clock on the morning meditation in the temple Muryōkōin. Unfortunately, last night I do not really come much sleep, I woke up every few hours because the light was burning in the hallway, the other guests have used the toilet, or where the beams up here otherwise been a squeak from him. Together with Tamara and Hajo I make my way to the temple, which lies only a few hundred yards away. It is very cold and we joke about that spring is here in Japan was ever warmer. When we get past parked cars, but are actually the windows befroren. Although it is late April, but in the mountains so to 1000 m altitude, it is then always a little cooler. I'm thinking that it would appeal to me already, a few weeks to live as if "Azubine" in a temple, but I would not cope with the cold. In Japan, a central heating system is not very common, perhaps in northern Hokkaido, the snow country. But generally, the Japanese seem to need its heat in winter with a hot bath at night and quiet during the day by sitting at Kotatsu (table with cover and heater) to be able to. But if one morning as I already badly comes up and then freezing in the day starts, you have to move a lot or some hot food. Oh yes - we have eaten breakfast yet and I hope the ceremony will not take too long.
digression Muryōkō-in http://www.shukubo.jp/eng/index.html http://www.nzz.ch/2006/12/14/to/articleELDTU.html http://www.swissinfo.ch/ger/Ein_Schweizer_Moench_in_Japan.html?cid=4439736 _2 & 
range = Voxtours The Muryōkō-in ("Immeasurable Light") temple was still under the name "take in" (Bambu house) for the fourth son of Emperor Kirakawa; founded (1053-1129 72nd Tenno), Kakuho Shinno. The temple was Murōyōju Buddha (also Amitaba) and later dedicated in-Murōkō renamed. Of the approximately 117 temples, he is one of about 53 temples Shokubō, Advertise a temple. Here the visitor is kept in special guest rooms and is fed a vegetarian diet. Some temples offer special meditation classes for the guests or you can participate there for a few days at the temple life. The daily ceremonies conclude with one, but also the cleaning of the temple and the hospitality of other pilgrims. The Muryōkō-in is famous for its garden, but as mentioned, is also Kurt Kübli Gensho worth a visit. He is not the only foreigner here in the temple, there are several, not originating from Japan, monks and nuns.
First, it is, in the maze of corridors here in Muryōkō-in Temple to find your way. Fortunately we have one monk, past the famous garden in the main hall. My heart goes on, because here someone has had pity on us mere mortals and set up some heat lamps. We sit on the floor and wait for the things that comes up. Today there are perhaps 10 guests who attend the morning ceremony here. Overnight visitors from the temple and of course the three of us from outside. Kurtsan is a short introduction of who we are three now, and why we do not belong to the Shokubō (temple lodging) guests. He explained to the participants that we completed the Shikoku pilgrimage tour and now here on Koyasan, the Daishi our "Waiting" have made. I must smile, for the Swiss-born Japanese guests said the course in Japanese, which it has with our attendance up. And damn it - I can really understand it well! As you walk for weeks by Japan, agreed with his hands and feet, because the local dialect, perhaps in the country predominant expression and speech rate, not used, and you realize that one of teaching to the European way of speaking Japanese is used, that is no longer a Japanese native speaker understands. But now begins the ceremony.
digression ceremonies in Shingon Buddhism (see excursions)
It is relatively dark in here, only the small flickering fire on the platforms of the monks and some prayer candles in front of him. It is an impressive ritual that are accompanied by songs and offerings of liquids from cups that are burned in the small fire. When the Heart Sutra is recited (hannya Shingyo), we can naturally fall into the chorus with a. The monks seem to alternate in the rite, as the song plays from here and sometimes comes from there. If I am correctly informed, at the end of the dead are mentioned by name, for this ceremony was held or who was appointed to fulfill a wish, a ceremony. Also we are in the Rite miteingebunden: When you bow incense in front of the shell, in the glow a little spark, takes some incense powder between the thumb and index finger, it leads to the front, bows, adding the powder to glow gently. Simply the front man observe and imitate him. After the ceremony is over, Tamara goes to a cup of Green Tea "with Kurt too, but Hajo and I ordered breakfast for 7.00 clock and connect the line with the way back to the hostel. Breakfast is delicious and rich, to get some hard-boiled eggs. Later joined by Tamara then come to us, which tells of her tea-wreath.
I am relatively haphazard, what I want to do today - of course explore the Koyasan. As Tamara the next night as Shokubō (temple lodging) has booked in a temple, they will move after breakfast there. I get my English-card book that I had lent her yesterday evening. Since she does not have any concrete ideas about the future course of their journey, we have recommended to her a trip to Shikoku and I wonder what I could do then, when I change the flight can not. "Opandgo", the Internet portal in which I booked my flight has not yet been reported. Hajo here have long since bored and thus familiar to decide we together again to make the temple town unsafe.
We want the first Kongobuji, so the actual main temple of the Shingon Buddhism visit and thereafter, referred to as "Danjo Garan" temple complex. But when we run the main road towards Kongobuji, we meet before the Muryōkō-in, Kurt, who wants to do with a bicycle straight on the road. We arrange to meet for 15.00 clock in Muryōkō-in and continue our way. But it is difficult to come here by exploiting the many temple gates captivate an ever again wonder. We pass a one-story pagoda, which is here on the road and not make it appear as if she were one of the adjacent Temple belong. The statue next to it, polished black stone, strikes me as quite unusual, it is a big Buddha statue (similar Hotei of the 7 lucky gods), but with a kind of hood that reminds me more of a battle monk. We follow the road, but I'll always curious in the gates and what is behind it. My God, what are we curious! We want to make only a view of the back, the cast, but usually comes immediately stormed a monk to us. We run the road along Odawara, there are many interesting shops, where one pilgrim utensils, omiyage (travel gifts for those at home) and the local culinary specialties can buy. Now, however, leads me to Hajo Kongobuji (Diamond Temple) Temple, the visit should I absolutely, because it has one of the largest Zen gardens of Japan. Hajo adores this kind of "Japanese Garden", because they are relatively simple, consisting mostly of a an area of bright pebbles and iconic rock. They are at best framed by some trees or shrubs, and moss surfaces so that most care is limited on the gravel with a rake to rake in great form and to collect any existing leaves. Such a garden would also like to Hajo at home in Hamburg.
In the explanatory note to this garden, notes that it covers 2340 m2 and the pebbles are from Kyoto, but the rocks have been established cause of Shikoku. We take a detour through the kitchen of the temple and I wonder if the monks are here today treated, still, or whether it is a kind of "substitute food" is, which is at too great pilgrim rush as on holidays put back into operation. The temple was originally built by Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1537-1589). "Monkey" as they called him because of his facial features, is a famous general from rural conditions was that even his heyday, rulers (Kampaku, "imperial rulers") of Japan was the way for the rise of Tokugawa Ieyasu (1545-1616) to the shogun (military ruler) paved. Ieyasu finally managed to win after many battles against rival samurai clans, some of the kingdom and let the Kaiser (emperor) 1603 appointment as the first Shogun of Japan. The famous Kongobuji is not only because he in fact the main temple more than 3,500 branch temples throughout Japan, but it has also had an artistic point of some treasures. For example, the Ohiroma room which is used for important ceremonies and was sliding its (fusuma) by the artist Tanyuu Kano (1602-1674) are designed. From the same artist and the weeping willows are in another room in which committed the nephew and adopted son, Toyotomi (see above) Hidetsugu 1595 ritual suicide (seppuku) has to to avoid sanctions for Hofverrats.
Hajo and I are finally in a large hall where the statue along with two strange-looking Kōbō Daishis Mandala (pictorial explanation of the conditions of the Buddha and the world) depends. It is not known to me the diamond empire (Kongōkai) nor the mother's womb mandala (Taizokai). But on closer inspection, it could be a "copy" of the mandala, in which the Buddha not as images but inform their Sanskrit syllables (Syllables) are listed. It is continually surprising! Here it is even desirable, to unwind with a cup of Green Tea ". The large stoves, the tea water boils it to me particularly excited because I'm chilled to the bone again. But now there are both heat to the outside and inside the soul, and even here in a heat with a round of meditation for the Shingon Buddhism.
We still roam through the temple, we look at the exhibited litters and wood windows. The latter probably came from the old pine trees from the avenue at Buddhist Ceremony (mausoleum) and also from the court of the Kongobuji I shoot some photos. Particularly of fire safety measures here, we are amused, as large wooden tanks are positioned not only on the ground, but directly on the thatched roof. The so would be a real shower, if so from a container as above would runterpurzeln. Now we must continue, but slows down the cherry blossoms at the gate me again. As I said, it is here on the plateau of the Koyasan, which extends from 8 mountain peaks, always a little cooler, so that the cherry blossoms will take place later. In general, the Koyasan is similar in construction to a mandala, which covers the whole of Japan. Kobo Daishi has this place not so selected without ulterior motives, as he 816 of the then Emperor Saga (786-842; 52. Emperor) has received permission to set up his headquarters here.
We pass the "Rojuji no Kane", the 6-clock-bell, and run to Danjo Garan complex. It consists of the Kondo Hall (Golden Hall), the Konpon Daito pagoda and the Miedo (Hall of the eternal contemplation), and in between are even smaller building as the Aizendo, Daiendo, Junteido, and Myo Shrine. The associated Daimon ("Great Gate") is located off of this complex - we want it later visited. The Kondo hall was originally built in 819 and was still built by Kukai himself and Ashuku Nyorai dedicated. Ashuku is one of the 13 Buddhas of the Shingon, and is in diamond-rich Mandala (Kongōkai) accompanying Buddha Dainichi Nyorai, the tallest Buddha in Shingon Buddhism. Ashuku represents the earth and in that capacity it is also known as "Lotus King" because he is one of the 5 kings of wisdom. The present hall dates from 1932 and is the 7th Reconstruction, as well as the Koyasan has not been spared from fires. In Kobo Daishi Miedo should have lived. Here is a portrait of the Daishi was hung, the artist who created the Shinnyo Shinno, a student Kōbō Daishis. The reconstruction of the hall dates from 1848. The Fudodo hall should be built in 1198 by Gyosho Shonin, it is thus the oldest surviving building in its original condition on Koyasan. It was built in the Kamakura style and is one of the national treasures. The Konpon Daito pagoda is 48.5 m high and Dainichi Nyorai dedicated. It is completely covered with paint and until 1937 had been completed. Looking at the Koyasan as part of a Madalas, then this pagoda in the center, therefore it can be found in both the Dainichi Nyorai from Taizokai (womb) Mandala and four Buddhas from the Kongōkai (diamond empire).
By and by we visit the main building. Now and then you have to pay admission, pull the trigger a donation or to get inside the building did not, because they closed or we are simply too stupid to find the right door of the innumerable doors. Fortunately, there are information boards in English, so that one can imagine but then lost not so, between all the culture and religiosity. We visit the Saito from the year 1834, a 27-meter-high pagoda treasure (tahōto), which is surrounded by giant cedars. The counterpart is the Toto pagoda in the Northeast, which burned down in 1843, but was rebuilt in 1984. We'll visit the Aizendō the "Sanko-no-Matsu" and called the Peacock Riesenpinie Temple Kujako "running from the former Emperor Go-Toba (1180-1239, 82nd emperor) was built and a statue of the Peacock God Mayura Videyara was created by artist Kaikei to 1200. The current building dates from 1984 after a fire had destroyed the entire building with the exception of the statue. Rokakku Kyozo is a Sechseckbau which dates back to 1159th The building also fell victim to a fire, so that the current had to be rebuilt. Originally, the construction of a Chinese Triplika (three-part picture) with gold letters on a purple background, but now it is kept in the nearby Reihokan Museum.
It even has a shrine, the female deities Nyuu and the male deity or Koya Kariba by Kobo Daishi was invited to were to serve as protection Kami (Shinto deity) for the temple area. He should, if I understood correctly, have brought from Amano at the foot of Koyasan with here.
smokes me now but the head of the many buildings and impressions. Everything has history here, everything is important and you want to also miss nothing that is worth seeing. But in the end we walk towards Daimon ("Grand Gate"), which is the actual entrance to Koyasan. There are still complex Konpon Daito the mausoleum of Chisen Daitoku that Sanmaido the Bentensha shrine in a pond, but now we walk through the ruins of the former as the "Middle Gate" designated area back to the road. Also located on the opposite side of the road Reihokan museum we give ourselves and, after a few minutes walk to the impressive size, the 25-meter Dainmon (Tor). It is a reconstruction of 1705 and the Guardian statues are from the artist Hokyo Uncho, which I could but get nothing in experience. The main road runs right past here in a curve, and to avoid being struck by the rather rapidly passing cars and motorcycles, I must be quite careful when taking photographs. are protected from small roofs, the two "Otasuke Jizōs" are directly along the road. The Jizōs wishes to meet, although the view from here, I'm really happy. I would have to know beforehand, I think to myself, as I discover a sign with the local trails. I had already done in the train of thought about how the pilgrims, the pilgrimage takes really seriously, because this might come up. This is a question I answered here:
Digression: Wander-/Pilgerwege the Kii Mountains
http://whc.unesco.org/pg.cfm?cid=31&id_site=1142 An old trail "Koyasan cho ishi michi "), at the foot of the temple on Koyasan Jison-in begins in Kudoyama, the inclined pilgrims but also the simple hikers travel the path to the Buddhist Ceremony (Mausoleum). This 24 kilometers each marked by stone pillars every 109 meters, it is that after 216 signposts difference walked in front of the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi. Since there are women until 1872, the magic number of the Meiji Restoration, was forbidden to enter the Koyasan, there is still the so-called "Frauenweg" which goes around the plateau of Koyasan. After a 6-hour hike, the pilgrims were then able to rest at the entrance in the "Nyonindo" said building because they were not allowed to come closer to that time the most sacred place in Shingon Buddhism, the mausoleum of Daihi. But of Koyasan is and was not only a target of pilgrimages, but also the starting point for such. Ise-ji is known as the pilgrimage to the Ise Shrine, Japan's most important shrine dedicated to the sun goddess Amaterasu. In 2004, the entire area of the Kii mountain was named by UNESCO as World Heritage Site. Under the heading "shrines and pilgrimage routes in the Kii Mountains" to encompass the entire Koyasan, and the pilgrimage routes (Naka-Hechi, O-Hechi, co-Hechi) to the Kumano Sanzan, the three major shrines of Kumano (Honguu-Taisha , Hayatama-Taisha and Nachi Taisha), the mountainous region around Yoshino and Omine, and the two temples and Seiganto Fudarukusan-ji-ji.
latter temple should meet me later, as he is the first of the so-called "Saikoku is pilgrimage route, one consisting of 33 temples pilgrimage route that is dedicated to the goddess Kannon. Without prejudice to rebook, but the flight can not be and I will take the decision to spend my remaining 3 weeks in Japan. I will visit the Shinto shrine in Ise, and from there to the Kumano Kodo, or more accurately follow the Ise-ji, the Shinto Grand Shrine of Kumano. Since I still have time and by "accident" on-Taisha Shrine Honguu meet on the directly adjacent Saiganto-ji temple, I would visit in the time I have left even 20 of these 33 temples.
But now run Hajo and I back the skin street, past the Hasu-ike, a pond, where on an island, just across a bridge to reaching that Bentensha shrine is located. "Shall we copy a sutra," Hajo asks me, grinning broadly. How should we write off our lack of Japanese knowledge not available to a Sutra? I have to write kanji (symbol characters), although already practiced, which was limited, however, just characters that had little more than 5 strokes. (Copy Copy Sutra /) But when we speak of a cute Japanese girl in the room for the Shakyo be performed because a felt-tip pen-like stylus is with brush and gray, to copy Sutra, whose characters highlighted, so that we have to follow the line only. Sigh of relief, we will not embarrass us, then, especially since a statement included in the English language.
One should in what you are doing full rise, it is usually when we seek the path of enlightenment. Not only to write something, but to be written. Full concentration on the task, even if it's in Japanese eyes a simple writing exercise. But we foreigners who are not as familiar with the kanji think, in the character more like spaghetti fallen to the ground, as in so obvious combinations, such as that of wife and child, the kanji for "to love" is created. The "not woman" the small Sister called and the combination of woman and the market, the older sister, is the quite alone can already go to the market. But for us gaijin (foreigners) the use of kanji is anyway connected with a lot of concentration, since we know the strokes anyway and it's more like a "paint by numbers" expires. Amazingly fast we then have filled our Journal. Is it the write speed or the concentration that can occur one hours like minutes. In any case we are satisfied with our work of art and asked ourselves the question now, whether we take it as a souvenir to take home or for one, but quite high, in honor of the fee in a Daishi Sutrenspeicher like to be kept in the temple for 1 year. We choose the cheapest option, although I still set a writing set, so I can practice at home a bit.
We leave the building and continue walking towards Buddhist Ceremony. Return on Karukayado Doshin one to buy some postcards. In Karukayado Doshin (
http://www.koyasan.net/i/english/sightseeing/seeingspot/karukayadou.html ) the history of Karykaya Doshin and his son will Ishido-maru told through beautiful images. They lived together for almost 40 years here in this building, not knowing that they are father and son. The mother died shortly before she could imagine her son his father at the foot of Koyasan. The ban on women entering the Koyasan did the rest, so that the woman her husband could not directly hand over his son. But the two were so together after the death of the mother. As the links have now been lifted, the misses from my knowledge. Should there be a parable about the fate (Karma), which is cruel and can not escape or a story of coincidence that what belongs together finally and finally gets together?
We walk up the street, a sign points the way to a university. You have to remember that about 4000 people live here, maybe 1,000 of them are monks. Of the many tourists attend the annual Koyasan, I will not talk at all. But people have to be supplied, there is next to souvenir shops, small supermarkets, restaurants and pubs. The Koyasan of course, has a university (Koyasan Daigaku) in the training of monks and priests, but also a Primary School (primary school), a junior high school (secondary school) and a high school (Gymnasium), where the children are the population to school. About Sando, the cedar avenue, we will return to the Buddhist Ceremony, the mausoleum of the Daishi. On my card, some memorial stones are mentioned, eg for the Toyotomi family, Tokugawa or Maeda. It's pretty fun to explore the memorials, since without This background information spacious rooms are just stones with Japanese characters easily. In particularly unusual stones I would have gladly wanted a table in English, eg in the aforementioned dog statue, or even with the little samurai who works with his face on the smooth, polished black marble as a manga character (cartoon character) . A company can work here even a cup of coffee in stone. Hard to believe, that build in Germany, a coffee roaster a memorial stone for his deceased service members in a cemetery would be - but that's Japan. There are not only unusual memorials, but all stone huts, with a Steintori (Shinto Ensure that the door) and stone fence, the more or less weathered, covered partly with moss, the place really scary can. Today, luckily the sun, but yesterday when I went here in the drizzle along aimlessly, disoriented, did this place seem so bleak. But now I can hear the rattle of weapons to the proud samurai and shoguns almost. What must this monk named Kukai (Kobo Daishi, posthumous Buddhist title of honor) but for an effect through the centuries, both the poorest and the most powerful, have had here in Japan that they have decided to close the Daishis their last to find peace. Now enter
we re the most sacred area which is separated by a small river. Hajo tells me something else to place the many buildings and where exactly is the Daishi dwells in eternal meditation. We offer a bundle of incense sticks, we received a gift in the city and make us on our way back. We're agreed with Kurtsan clock at 15.00 and we do get some dough pieces for our "tea party". The local combining (24-hour store) is called "Coco" and some particles are quickly purchased. I just hope that Kurt as a priest may eat these sweets or sweet at all fit in his diet. But in the end We then spin a little late at 15.30 clock in Muryōkō-in. Unfortunately, Kurt's wife, who lives with him in the room, not there, and even Kurt himself is not a sweet tooth. But still we generally have a cup of tea stimulating discussions on his resume, his projects and life. He tells us of a TV crew wants to shoot a documentary on the Shikoku pilgrimage tour and would like to question him as an expert. The DVD "88 - pilgrims in Japanese" is in his possession, so we to him by our contact with the director, we had visited for the purpose of information exchange in Berlin to report to. We have real happiness, Kurtsan be found right now, for he is, as already mentioned, returned yesterday from Thailand. Time goes by very quickly and when we look at the clock it's already 19.00 clock. Minute we invite Kurtsan into his favorite restaurant, located at the end of the road. It's small, but fine as I could find yesterday with Tamara. The order we leave Kurt, because he probably knows best what tastes here. There are "green salad with tofu, sashimi and a bowl of rice, we also order. But unfortunately we have been plastered all as the landlady comes with the rice. Kurtsan then tells us what is going on with the chicken pieces on to have actually tasted pretty good. It should feel at have "crop" act, which is the muscular sac of the chicken neck, but now has not tasted any way unusual. Then he would have to come with natto (fermented soybeans), Embryos or bee-Zappel sushimi (raw fish) in order to bring Shikoku seasoned veterans from the socket.
We meet very late in the Youth Hostel, as we have continued our conversation in the pub. But instead of a bath tired I crawl into my bed and say, Hajo, that he should not count on me in the morning if he would again visit the fair in the morning Muryōkō-in. And I did well, because during the night I would of at least 8 toilets taken out of sleep.
